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At Jamaican eatery, only the beach is missing

AMENIA — The soft sound of reggae music and the appetizing smell of Jamaican soul food are the first things that hit anyone fortunate enough to happen upon Railhead Jerk, a new restaurant in Amenia. Chef/owner Julette Barker-Wilson likes to keep the atmosphere relaxed and the food fresh — and she achieves that delicate balance every one of the five days a week that Railhead Jerk is open.

“When I go to Jamaica, this is the kind of setting I like to be in: the food, the music, the company,” she said. “The only thing that’s missing is the beach.”

But not much else. The vibe at Railhead Jerk is mellow, but the food is vibrant. The menu features a variety of “jerk” dishes, including pork and chicken and the very popular barbecue ribs. There are also curry goat, oxtail stew, classic Jamaican patties and fish specials several times a week. 

Side dishes include fried ripe plantains, corn casserole and rice and peas. 

Dessert options include sweet potato pudding and cornmeal pudding, plantain tarts and Jamaican fruit cake. 

Meals range from roughly $10 to $17, with a full rack of ribs costing $22.

The emphasis is on fresh; Barker-Wilson tries to keep supplies low so that nothing has been waiting in the refrigerator. The downside is that she will sometimes run out of items before the shop closes at 8 p.m.  

Barker-Wilson said she uses her own adaptations of classic Jamaican recipes.

“Jamaican restaurants all do curry goat and oxtail, but I guess everybody’s is different.”

Although jerk foods are traditionally spicy, Barker-Wilson tries to offer foods for every palate. 

“Everything is highly seasoned,” she said. “But I tone down some of the seasonings a notch from how I would normally eat it.”

Raised in Jamaica, Barker-Wilson has lived in Amenia for the past 20 years. For many of those years she commuted to the city, where she worked as a fashion designer.

Food preparation has always been a part of her life, though.

“I’ve been cooking since I was 10 or 11 years old,” Barker-Wilson said. “And then I did five years of formal cooking in high school.”

She came to the United States around 1980, and said she was happy to eventually make Amenia her home. Now, with the restaurant right on Route 22, the busy chef said she’s within walking distance of her house. The restaurant is conveniently located, close to the Harlem Valley Rail Trail and the Metro-North Wassaic train station (next door to Fudgy’s ice cream shop).

Sometimes, said Barker-Wilson, she gets people walking straight off the Rail Trail, hungry from their exertions.

Much of her business consists of takeout orders, though there are a dozen or so tables in the light and airy dining room. 

Railhead Jerk is open Thursday, Sunday and Monday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., and Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. The restaurant is at 4789 Route 22 in Amenia. Call 845-789-1540 or go online to www.railheadjerk.com.

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