After one year under Clare de Boer, Stissing House surges forward

PINE PLAINS —  Stissing House has remained a centralizing force to the town of Pine Plains in one form or another since its construction in 1782. That’s 241 years of milestones. It reached a new one on Friday, March 10: a full year under the ownership of Clare de Boer.

A James Beard Foundation nominee for Rising Star Chef of the Year in 2018, de Boer’s move to take on ownership of Stissing House in 2022 was reported on by the New York Times, Eater, and beyond. Her work there has since born fruit: Stissing House was named a semifinalist for Best New Restaurant 2023 by the James Beard Foundation on Jan. 25. Next to a Michelin star, recognition by the James Beard Foundation is one of the food world’s most prestigious honors. On March 29, the nominees will be announced, and a winner will be decided at a James Beard award ceremony on June 5.

Having earned her chef stripes working at King in Soho, de Boer now splits her time between the city — where she co-owns both an Italian restaurant and a French restaurant — and Dover Plains, where her family spends much of its time. As for what drew her to opening a restaurant in Pine Plains, the answer was unambiguous: “Stissing House. Period. Stissing House is magnetic. It’s a forcefield.”

From 1995 to 2021, the Stissing House operated under a series of owners as a French restaurant, and the journey for de Boer to providing a fresh take on an established and historic mainstay involved taking it back to those historic roots.

“[It was] really about restoring the building to its full potential. It has such brilliant bones, so we didn’t want to change anything that was pre-existing…. So our focus is really on creating a sense of place…. For instance our camel logo came from a doodle that we found in one of the old diaries of someone who had slept upstairs at the inn!

“That’s kind of our approach to food as well. But the bones of our food are the incredible local produce. We work with all of these incredible farms in the area, and we try and keep it simple by using the wood oven and wood-fired grill. We’re kind of locked on all sides by farms, and we want to celebrate that…. Just do simple, country American style cooking.”

That first full year of operation, however, was not without difficulties for Stissing House. Though jobs filled in restaurants have now surpassed pre-pandemic employment levels, in April 2022, restaurants were staffed at 6.4% below the 2019 norm. This staffing shortage was met by both a surge in demand — during many of the months of 2022, levels of dining out exceeded pre-pandemic levels — and record inflation. Though this kind of industry-wide difficulty was impossible to avoid, de Boer credited her team for much of the success in navigating it.

“The headline is truly the team. I’ve been so lucky to find these people that are really doing all of the hard work day to day to make Stissing House what it is. My chef de cuisine, Roel Alcudia…. and my general manager Nathan Rawlinson…. they’re wonderful. It takes good people to attract and retain good people. Unless you’ve got awesome leaders, you have nothing, and I really think that we’ve got the best of the best.”

As for what keeps de Boer tethered to her work both as a chef and business owner amid the busyness and chaos of life, the answer is simple: “People and produce. I’m in constant contact with my team, and love working with them. And I love being in the restaurant, chatting to all of our customers and our regulars. There’s a real sense of community around it.

“And then as it comes to food, you can never really get bored of it—because when you do, the next season arrives. Obviously, right now it’s March and I’m very bored of kale and potatoes. But just as you lose interest, the ground thaws and you’ve got peas and rhubarb, and it starts all over again…. I love how food ties into life, how it can make us all feel, and bring people together.”

Whether or not Stissing House takes home an award in June, for de Boer, the future of the restaurant is one full of potential and challenges.

“There’s just so much room to grow with that building. There’re rooms to feast in upstairs, there’s a room for us to open a bakery, there’s a huge garden that we haven’t even begun to landscape! I think we’re just at the very beginning of our journey.”

The Stissing House team, from left: Katie Pearce, Clare de Boer, Jose Rameirez, Roel Alcudia, Nathan Rawlinson and Amanda Beverly. Photo by Gabriel Zimmer

The Stissing House in Pine Plains. Photo by John Coston

A bustling Thursday night Photo by Elias Sorich

The Stissing House team, from left: Katie Pearce, Clare de Boer, Jose Rameirez, Roel Alcudia, Nathan Rawlinson and Amanda Beverly. Photo by Gabriel Zimmer

Latest News

Chion Wolf brings ‘Audacious’ radio show to Winsted with show-and-tell event
Nils Johnson, co-founder and president of The Little Red Barn Brewers in Winsted, hosted Chion Wolf and her Connecticut Public show “Audacious LIVE: Show and Tell,” which was broadcast on April 8, drawing a sold-out crowd.
Jennifer Almquist

The parking lot of The Little Red Barn Brewers in Winsted was full on Wednesday, April 8, as more than 100 people from 43 Connecticut towns — including New Haven and Vernon — arrived carrying personal treasures for a live taping of “Audacious LIVE Show & Tell.”

Chion Wolf, host and producer of Connecticut Public’s “Audacious,” and her crew, led by production manager Maegn Boone, brought the program to the packed brewery for an evening of story-driven conversation and shared keepsakes.

Keep ReadingShow less
Marge Parkhurst, the preservation detective

Marge Parkhurst with a collection of historic nails recovered from wall cavities during restoration work.

Photo courtesy of Marge Parkhurst/Cottage & Country Painting Company
Walls still surprise me. If you look hard enough, you can find buried treasure.
Marge Parkhurst

After nearly 50 years of painting some of Litchfield County’s oldest homes and landmark properties, Marge Parkhurst has developed an eye for the past—reading the clues left behind in stenciled vines, forgotten bottles and newspapers tucked into walls, each revealing a small but vivid piece of Connecticut history.

Parkhurst was stripping wallpaper in a farmhouse in Colebrook — the kind of historic home she has spent decades restoring — when she noticed something odd. Three layers of paper had already come off — each one a different era’s idea of decoration — and beneath them, just barely visible under dull, off-white plaster, a pattern emerged.

Keep ReadingShow less
Wings of Spring performance at the Mahaiwe Theater
Adam Golka
Provided

On Sunday, April 19, at 4 p.m., Close Encounters With Music (CEWM) presents On the Wings of Song at the Mahaiwe Performing Arts Center in Great Barrington.

The program focuses on Robert Schumann’s spellbinding song cycle Dichterliebe (“A Poet’s Love”), a setting of sixteen poems by Heinrich Heine that explores love, longing, and the redemptive power of beauty. Featured artists include John Moore, baritone; Adam Golka, pianist; Miranda Cuckson, viola; and Yehuda Hanani, cello.

Keep ReadingShow less
google preferred source

Want more of our stories on Google? Click here to make us a Preferred Source.

New climbing gym planned for Great Barrington

Photo by Alec Linden

A climber explores Great Barrington’s renowned bouldering areas, reflecting the growing local interest in the sport ahead of the planned opening of Berkshire Boulders.

Alec Linden

Berkshire Boulders, a rock climbing gym, is set to open in the Berkshires later this year, aiming to do more than fill a gap in indoor recreation — it could help bring climbing further into the region’s mainstream.

Its co-founders already have their sights set beyond the roughly 2,000 square feet of climbable wall planned for a site off Route 7, just north of downtown Great Barrington.

Keep ReadingShow less
Wind, tarps and trail wisdom: a day learning how to camp smarter

Mat Jobin teaches the group how to use a permanent platform to rig a tent. The privy and lean-to of the Appalachian Mountain Club’s Limestone Spring Shelter are visible in the background.

Alec Linden

A happy day on the trail all starts with a good night’s sleep the night before. That’s local trekking guide Mat Jobin’s mantra, and he affirms that a good night’s sleep is possible even if it has to be on the trail itself – with the right preparation, that is.

Jobin, of Simsbury, Connecticut, is a 16-year professional guide and the founder and owner of Reach Your Summit, an outdoor experiences company that promotes self-confidence and leadership skills through a variety of excursions and educational workshops in the forests of New England. On Saturday, April 11, Jobin hosted the inaugural Campsite Selection & Skills workshop just off the Falls Village section of the Appalachian Trail.

Keep ReadingShow less
Grandmother Moon: Wunneanatsu Lamb-Cason book talk in Torrington
Wunneanatsu Lamb-Cason (Schaghticoke/Ho-Chunk), an educator, traditional storyteller and author, will read from her new book Grandmother Moon, inspired by her grandmother, Indigenous educator Trudie Lamb Richmond, who lived on Schaghticoke land along the Housatonic River in Kent.
Provided

The story comes full circle when educator, traditional storyteller and author Wunneanatsu Lamb-Cason (Schaghticoke/Ho-Chunk) comes to Litchfield County to read from her new book, Grandmother Moon, inspired by her grandmother, Indigenous educator Trudie Lamb Richmond, who lived on Schaghticoke land along the Housatonic River in Kent.

On Saturday, April 18, from 2-4 p.m., the Torrington Historical Society at 192 Main St. will host the book talk and sharing of traditional stories.

Keep ReadingShow less
google preferred source

Want more of our stories on Google? Click here to make us a Preferred Source.

google preferred source

Want more of our stories on Google? Click here to make us a Preferred Source.