At Whippoorwill Farm, grass-fed and local

SALISBURY — With the mounting interest in locally produced food (popularized in part by the book, “The Omnivore’s Dilemma,â€� by Cornwall’s Michael Pollan), Northwest Corner residents have a nearby option for  hamburger meat, tucked away on Salmon Kill Road in Lakeville.

Whippoorwill Farm, run by Allen and Robin Cockerline, features grass-fed beef and a variety of other products. And if one stops by to pick up a steak, one can wander over and take a look at the herd — it’s right there.

Grass-fed beef is just better, said Allen Cockerline. Compared to a standard, grain-fed animal, which lives for about 18 months before slaughter, a cut of meat from Whippoorwill Farm is on the hoof for at least 24 months, he said.

The Cockerlines “kind of backed into� the grass-fed beef business, he explained. “We used to take our beef steers and put them on grain for the last two months.

“And then we asked why? Why add a layer of fat — at considerable expense? And when we sent them to slaughter they turned out really, really good.�

Cockerline emphasized that Whippoorwill’s products are not organic, as defined and regulated by the Food and Drug Administration. When two calves got sick earlier this winter, they were treated with antibiotics.

“I’ll use antibiotics� in a case like that, said Cockerline. “Those calves are not going to be in the food chain for two years.�

“We rely on our customers trusting us,� added Robin Cockerline, who was busy with a roast, the aroma of which made it difficult for a hungry reporter to concentrate. “Our core customers buy the ground beef, the stew beef, pot roasts, chuck.�

And Whippoorwill offers beef hot dogs that might change some finicky eaters’ minds about that humble item.

“We’ve got people who haven’t touched a hot dog in years who are addicted to these,� laughed Allen Cockerline.

The retail side is growing, slowly but surely, he added. “This last quarter was our best. If we can’t do this now, we’re never going to do it.�

Whippoorwill Farm also sells expensive cuts — with beef filet topping the list at $27 per pound. And it sells.

“Those sales have actually increased,� said Robin Cockerline. “It’s like the $20 or $30 bottle of wine, instead of the $10 bottle.

“We don’t eat the filet,� she added wryly.

The Cockerlines have agreements with local landowners to hay their fields, sometimes in lieu of rent, and the former owners of their land have arranged for the surrounding fields to remain open; most are protected by conservation easements. It’s all very local.

“We’re not zealots or food nuts,� said Allen Cockerline as he led the way to the cows. “This is a way to keep farming and keep the land open.�

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