Thank you!
Your support is sustaining the future of local news in our communities.

A Bigger Mushroom, A Bigger Restaurant


NEW HARTFORD — The portobello is the king of the mushrooms, dwarfing its fungish brethren with its imposing size and woody, exotic flavor. But Portobello Ristorante & Pizzeria, New Hartford’s Italian dining sensation, is only getting bigger.

Now in its third year of business, Portobello has garnered a reputation for quality, and it isn’t unusual to see customers lining up outside the door on the weekends – so much, in fact, that head chef and owner Emil Odai decided his restaurant had to grow.

"I can’t wait until we finish," Odai said Monday of the extensive renovation project, which began two months ago and is slated to conclude in mid-December. "Every year, my business is growing."

Odai makes it his business to help out the community – and the country – in which he has found so much success, from holding fundraisers for the local fire department and other groups to raising money for Katrina victims last year.

"It’s great," Linda Gosselin said of working under Odai. "He’s a really sweet guy, and a very, very nice person to work for – and with."

Gosselin, a full-time waitress, is one of several employees who have been with Odai since the beginning. That’s unusual in the restaurant business, which is known for having a high turnover rate, but it’s not surprising here. The staff seems to hold Odai in high esteem – and he returns those sentiments, taking every opportunity to praise his 20 or so employees.

"Linda is very pleasant," Odai said of Gosselin, of whom he seems particularly proud. "All the customers know her, she calls everyone by name. The customers feel very comfortable around her."

But fond as he is of his devoted staff, Odai is a family man, first and foremost. Portobello is actually the second restaurant of that name owned by the Odai family. Emil’s father, Idriz, owned a Portobello in his native Croatia for some 20 years, and passed on his culinary know-how to his son. Emil said the menu in his New Hartford restaurant – Italian-themed and redolent of the eponymous mushrooms – is very similar to that of his father’s Portobello.

Odai and wife, Sherry, have three children together – Anifa, 8, Armend, 6 and Aneesa, 2. All three have pizzas named after them, and while little Aneesa’s "favorite" – a pizza topped with shrimp, tomatoes, olives and sun-dried tomatoes – might not seem like a typical 2-year-old’s cup of tea, it’s nice to see the youngsters getting a nod from Dad on the menu.

And aside from renaming the pizzas in honor of his children, in the three years since Portobello opened on Route 44 near the Canton line, that menu has only changed once – when Odai expanded his lunch offerings. Gosselin said the chicken portobello entree is a customer favorite, as is the Italiano – one of 26 gourmet pizzas on offer. Odai stressed that, beverages aside, nearly everything served at Portobello is homemade – from the warm, rustic dinner rolls to the thin-crusted brick-oven pizza to the pasta itself. But while the extensive menu remains constant, the restaurant’s aesthetics are in the midst of a complete overhaul.

The dining room has undergone a complete makeover, and now sports a Mediterranean-themed look, with oak paneling, mahogany-hued leather booths and stucco walls of a salty pink, evocative of a Sicilian setting sun splashing off the rocks.

Still under construction is an entirely new wing, roughly doubling the size of the building, with a lounge and fully-stocked bar. Portobello, which formerly had a capacity of 70 persons, will now be able to comfortably seat 120, according to Odai.

"I love it. It’s very warm and inviting," Gosselin said of the new decor. "We’ve had great reviews, from our clientele and from the staff."

As for the food itself, Odai seems to have set a high standard for his kitchen staff. This reporter sat down to a lunch Monday, ordering the $7.95 portobello special. Pasta dishes like this one, bursting with scallions, olives, roasted peppers and, of course, portobello mushrooms, are offered with a choice of spaghetti, ziti or linguini. On Monday, the ziti was perfectly al dente. The rich, tangy brown sauce, neither thick nor watery, had a woody flavor which really brought out the sylvan nature of the dish. The portobello clearly took center stage, but the fresh, firm kalamata olives imparted a wonderful, zesty kick that made the hearty mushrooms come alive.

Portobello is located at 107 Main St. (Route 44) in New Hartford, and is open seven days a week, from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sundays, until 9:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday and until 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Odai said the lounge will remain open later once construction is finished. The restaurant closes three days a year: Easter, Thanksgiving and Christmas.

Prices are reasonable – especially considering the generous portions – with no regular entrees over $20. Takeout is available, as is catering for parties. For reservations or inquiries, call 860-693-2598.

Latest News

E. Jean Carroll backs out of book-signing event at Hotchkiss Library for safety reasons

The Hotchkiss Library of Sharon will host its 28th annual Sharon Summer Book Signing event July 31 through Aug. 2.

Aly Morrissey

SHARON – Facing threats of violence amid a public dispute with President Donald J. Trump, famed author and journalist E. Jean Carroll is no longer expected to attend a highly anticipated book-signing at The Hotchkiss Library of Sharon, though library officials said they have not received formal notice that she has canceled.

The meet and greet was originally scheduled for Aug. 1 as part of the library’s Sharon Summer Book Signing event – which will take place as planned – but Library Director Gretchen Hachmeister said July 2 that Carroll’s attendance is no longer expected. She said the writer is allegedly in an undisclosed location under police protection after receiving death threats related to a recent Supreme Court decision and the president’s subsequent posts on social media.

Keep ReadingShow less

HVRHS Announces Senior Awards

HVRHS Announces Senior Awards

Senior awards for the HVRHS Class of 2026 have been announced.

Nathan Miller

The Housatonic Valley Regional High School senior awards were announced for the Class of 2026. The graduation ceremony was held Friday, June 19. Student speakers acknowledged the importance of community, as several reflected on overcoming significant adversity in their young lives.

Norma Lake Award - Shanaya Duprey

Keep ReadingShow less

The nature of Upstate Art Weekend

The nature of Upstate Art Weekend
Opening of Upstate Art Weekend at Olana with Helen Toomer, Ellen Harvey, Jean Shin and Gabriela Salazar
D.H. Callahan

On Thursday, June 25, a collection of eager art enthusiasts gathered at Olana State Historic Estate in Hudson to kick off the seventh annual Upstate Art Weekend (UAW).

Helen Toomer, founder, was joined by sculptors Ellen Harvey, Jean Shin and Gabriela Salazar to discuss their work and the legacy of painter Frederic Church. Church, whose 200th birthday is being celebrated this year, is widely credited as one of the founding members of the Hudson River School of painting. The discussion took place at Olana, Church’s grand estate, where the three artists’ installations are on view.

Keep ReadingShow less
google preferred source

Want more of our stories on Google? Click here to make us a Preferred Source.

Benjamin Reynaert and the art of layered living

Benjamin Reynaert

Jennifer Almquist
Creating a home is, at its core, an act of love.
— Benjamin Reynaert

Benjamin Reynaert is focused on creative direction and interior styling. He is market director at Elle Décor, a design consultant, and author of “The Layered Home: Inspiration for Crafting Cozy, Collected Rooms,” published this year by Clarkson Potter. He co-founded Ticking Tent, a market featuring antiques, luxury items and vintage treasures. The biannual event is held in New Preston, Connecticut, and Bedford, New York.

Adopted from South Korea at 3 months old, Reynaert grew up in Bloomfield Hills, Michigan. He always knew he wanted to be an artist. “I just loved drawing. I loved making things with clay,” he said. “Remembering what it felt like to be creative as kids and applying that to our creativity as adults is essential.” A graduate of the Rhode Island School of Design (RISD), where he earned a BFA and a degree in architecture, Reynaert also studied bookbinding in Rome. His attention to detail and aesthetic sense reflect years of training and a finely tuned eye for objects. “Attending RISD nurtured my creativity and taught me how to problem-solve,” he said.

Keep ReadingShow less
Beneath the surface: Delano Dunn and Mickalene Thomas explore history, memory and art

Mickalene Thomas and Delano Dunn at Wassaic Project.

Lucia Landolo

Before “Echoes in the Margin,” Delano Dunn’s new solo exhibition at Troutbeck in Amenia opened, the artist sat down with curator and artist Mickalene Thomas for a conversation at the Wassaic Project on Wednesday, June 24. Their wide-ranging discussion offered an intimate look into Dunn’s practice while situating the work within broader questions of history, memory and representation.

Presented by the Wassaic Project, the exhibition brings Dunn’s richly layered paintings into conversation with Troutbeck itself, the historic estate long associated with artists, writers and civil rights leaders, including W.E.B. Du Bois, Langston Hughes and many more.

Keep ReadingShow less
Local performer Vemilo transforms the Moviehouse

Vemilo performs at the Moviehouse in Millerton.

D.H. Callahan

On Friday, June 26, patrons at the Moviehouse in Millerton were treated to a performance by local artist and musician Vemilo, who returned to the theater’s biggest room for a second full-length show.

Regular patrons will know Theatre Three as the setting for post-screening interviews, Q&As, discussions and the theater’s monthly movie trivia night. Vemilo’s performance entirely reimagined the space. With just a few props and pieces of furniture, the stage was transformed into Vemilo’s sanctuary.

Keep ReadingShow less
google preferred source

Want more of our stories on Google? Click here to make us a Preferred Source.

google preferred source

Want more of our stories on Google? Click here to make us a Preferred Source.