A short distance away from Northwest Auto, across Railroad Street, we come across the newest business in town, ILSE Coffee. ILSE is a company that has been based in Stamford, Conn. Originally, they were primarily wholesale coffee roasters that shipped beans to cafes around the world. I sat down to interview co-owners Rebecca Grossman and Lucas Smith, who couldn’t be more excited to have brought their business to North Canaan. When asked why they chose North Canaan, Grossman said, “We were coming up on our lease and thinking about where we wanted to be next in the world and North Canaan was always an option. It’s always been a special place for both of us. We had been driving by this building when we would come up and always thought that it would make for such an amazing roastery. So we reached out to the owner and he was interested in renting it to us and we decided to make the move.”
In August of 2022, Isle made its move from Stamford to North Canaan and has been bustling ever since. It was a great fit right away. While in Stamford, ILSE was located in a warehouse, which worked great, but the team was looking for that small-town feel and personality. The new location has plenty of room for the entire wholesale department while having the added bonus of a small room for a store. Leaning into the retail side of things is the direction that they intend on going as well. Opening the retail side has taken more time than they originally thought, but are ready to open this spring. Having that piece of the business be a new opportunity for growth is rather exciting for co-owners Smith and Grossman. Being able to bring to light all the deliciousness that comes with coffee and coffee-related drinks to the folks of North Canaan is something they cannot wait to do. They will also be selling their beans in the store for people who brew their coffee at home and are looking for top-notch beans. Anyone looking for a great cup of Joe and anything else related to coffee, look no further than ILSE Coffee.
Across the street, we have Nutrition On Railroad and KayCee & Co. Gift Boutique, which is a joint operation owned by Cassidy Pelletier and Kelly Wolfe. On the Nutrition side there is a medley of smoothies, acai bowls, and energy-boosting drinks, on the Gift Boutique side there are all sorts of trinkets and other assorted goods. This combo shop, if you will, is something that is completely unique to North Canaan. The birth of Nutrition started with the idea of “What is Canaan missing?” A smoothie and drink bar was the answer. Pelletier doesn’t want that to be the only way people know nutrition though, as she is always focused on “what Canaan needs and will continue to need” in the hope of always being able to adapt to the times. Adaptation is something they both see as growth and progress, that’s why about a year ago they added the Gift Boutique. Breaking down a wall between the two storefronts and becoming one, the stores flourished. Unfortunately, the traffic just hasn’t been there for the Gift Boutique so they, naturally, will have to adapt.
Nutrition is generally pretty busy, with a rush in the morning and around lunchtime with a steady stream of folks in and out in between, they stay bustling. The Gift Boutique, however, is a totally different animal. “The gift shop just doesn’t stand alone right now, whereas Nutrition has always been successful.” Due to unforeseen circumstances, the gift shop struggles to draw a crowd. Cassidy has a couple of theories of her own as to why that is. “ I don’t know if Canaan is just not ready for it, or people just don’t think about Canaan in that way. Honestly, I don’t think there are enough gift shops. No one comes to Canaan for one gift shop. I wish we had three or four gift shops and I think we’d be a lot more successful.” The gift shop is a fantastic addition to the town, and it’s great for people just passing through town that can get a memento to remember Canaan by. It’s just unfortunate that there really isn’t the foot traffic through town to support it completely. This realization has prompted Nutrition to rethink what it wants to do and how to make changes to be more successful. Seeing as one side of the business has a steady stream of customers at this point, it would only make sense for them to lean into that side.
Expanding Nutrition on Railroad will be no easy task, and as such has been planned out thoroughly, the main idea behind it is to really lean into the breakfast side of things. In order to do so they will have to undergo reconstruction, planned for sometime this summer. The area behind the bar is not very large, which is by design. There’s only so much space that one or at max two people behind the bar need, they’re only whipping up smoothies and other drinks. The storage for everything doesn’t take up very much space, they use fresh fruit for every smoothie and fruit bowl so they can’t have too much fruit in stock or else it will sit too long and spoil. So in order to accommodate breakfast they must make some critical changes, which means increasing that space, just not at the cost of the smoothie bar. The smoothie bar offers a unique way for people to come together and mingle as if it were a real bar, but there’s no alcohol and that is something that Pelletier does not want to change about the business. “I feel like it’s a fun place to come sit and what we kinda want to do is have more seating options because it is small.” Along with the expansion will come new merchandise and owner Pelletier teased that there could possibly be a name change. “I feel like Nutrition On Railroad kind of limits me a little bit… just the name Nutrition On Railroad, yes the food is nutrition, but that’s not how I want people to take it, thinking that it’s only healthy options. Right now that’s what we’re geared for and we’re always going to have that, but I wanted to offer things like pastries and sandwiches.” Time changes quickly and waits for no one, so the folks at Nutrition are adapting fast and shaking things up.
State Sen. Stephen Harding
NEW MILFORD — State Sen. and Minority Leader Stephen Harding announced Jan. 20 the launch of his re-election campaign for the state’s 30th Senate District.
Harding was first elected to the State Senate in November 2022. He previously served in the House beginning in 2015. He is an attorney from New Milford.
In his campaign announcement, he said, “There is still important work to do to make Connecticut more affordable, government more accountable, and create economic opportunity. I’m running for reelection to continue standing up for our communities, listening to residents, and delivering real results.”
As of late January, no publicly listed challenger has filed to run against him.
The 30th District includes Bethlehem, Brookfield, Cornwall, Falls Village, Goshen, Kent, Litchfield, Morris, New Fairfield, New Milford, North Canaan, Salisbury, Sharon, Sherman, Warren, Washington, Winchester and part of Torrington.
MILLERTON — James (Jimmy) Cookingham, 51, a lifelong local resident, passed away on Jan. 19, 2026.
James was born on April 17, 1972 in Sharon, the son of Robert Cookingham and the late Joanne Cookingham.
He attended Webutuck Central School.
Jimmy was an avid farmer since a very young age at Daisey Hill and eventually had joint ownership of Daisey Hill Farm in Millerton with his wife Jessica.
He took great pride in growing pumpkins and sweet corn.
He was very outdoorsy and besides farming, loved to ride four wheelers, fish, and deer hunt. He also loved to make a roaring bonfire.
He was a farmer, friend, husband, father, son and brother. He will be missed by many.
He is survived by his father, Robert Cookingham, wife Jessica (Ball) Cookingham, daughters, Hailey Cookingham-Loiodice (Matt), Taylor Ellis-Tanner (Jimmy) and sister Brenda Valyou, as well as many cousins, nieces and nephews.
He is predeceased by his mother, Joanne (Palmer) Cookingham.
His daughter, Hailey, will always keep his legacy alive by their father-daughter antics, such as their handshake, nicknames and making “quacking noises” at each other.
Services/Memorials will be held at a later date.
The Kenny Funeral Home has care of arrangements.
Telecom Reg’s Best Kept On the Books
When Connecticut land-use commissions update their regulations, it seems like a no-brainer to jettison old telecommunications regulations adopted decades ago during a short-lived period when municipalities had authority to regulate second generation (2G) transmissions prior to the Connecticut Siting Council (CSC) being ordered by a state court in 2000 to regulate all cell tower infrastructure as “functionally equivalent” services.
It is far better to update those regs instead, especially for macro-towers given new technologies like small cells. Even though only ‘advisory’ to the CSC, the preferences of towns by law must be taken into consideration in CSC decision making. Detailed telecom regs – not just a general wish list -- are evidence that a town has put considerable thought into where they prefer such infrastructure be sited without prohibiting service that many – though not all – citizens want and that first responders rely on for public safety.
Such regs come in handy when egregious tower sites are proposed in sensitive areas, typically on private land. The regs are a town’s first line of defense, especially when cross referenced to plans of conservation and development, P&Z regulations, and wetlands setbacks. They identify how/where the town plans to intersect with the CSC process. They are also a roadmap for service providers regarding preferred sites and sometimes less neighborhood contention. In fact, to have no telecom regs can weaken a town’s rights to protect environmental, scenic, and historic assets, and serve up whole neighborhoods to unnecessary overlapping coverage and corporate overreach. Such regs are unique to every town and should not follow anyone else’s boiler plate, especially industry’s.
Connecticut is the only state that has a centralized siting entity for cell towers. The good news is that applicants must prove need for new tower sites in an evidentiary proceeding and any decisions have the weight of the state behind them. The bad news is that the CSC used to be far less industry-friendly and rote in their reviews, which now resemble a check list. There is an operative assumption at CSC that if an applicant wants a tower, they must need it, otherwise why spend significant money to run the approval gauntlet? This reflects a subtle shift over the years at CSC from sincere willingness to protect the environment toward minimal tweaking of bad applications with minor changes. The bottom line is that towns really cannot rely on the CSC to do all the work for them.
What CSC issues telecom providers is a “certificate of environmental compatibility” after an evidentiary proceeding (not unlike a court case) with intervenors, parties, expert witnesses, and the service provider’s technical pro’s sworn in and subject to cross examination. Service providers get to do the same with any opposition from intervenor/party participants – like towns and citizens -- and their experts. It’s an impressive process whose ultimate goal is the fine balancing between allowing adequate/reliable public services and protecting state ecology with minimal damage to scenic, historic, and recreational values. They unfortunately often fall short of their mandate – like approving cell towers with diesel generators over town aquifers -- evidenced by CSC only rejecting about five cell towers in the past 15-20 years.
The CSC was founded in 1972 and clarified its mission in the 1980’s to prevent the state from being carved up willy-nilly by gas pipelines, high tension corridors, and broadcast towers. With the sudden proliferation of cell towers beginning in late 1990’s, it became the most sued agency in Connecticut by both an arrogant upstart industry if applications were denied and by towns/citizens when bad sites were forced on them. CSC gradually formed a defensive posture that drives their decisions toward industry with deeper pockets and attorneys on retainer.
For citizens, nothing can wreck one’s day like the CSC. It behooves towns to protect what little toolkit they have, and understand the legal parameters of the CSC’s playing field. The CSC is not a “normal” government agency where municipal/citizen redress is based on logic and local support. Their process is largely immune to everything but specific kinds of evidence – like town regs with setbacks/fall zones, radio frequency transmission signal strengths, sensitive areas identified, and detailed wildlife inventory, among others.
There is a current cell tower fight involving two intervening towns -- Washington and Warren; both with good cell tower regs – over a tower site within 1200’ of a Montessori School, near Steep Rock’s nature preserves with comprehensive geology/wildlife databases that include endangered, threatened and special concern flora and fauna, on established federal/state migratory bird flyways, within throwing distance to a historic site capable of being listed on the Underground Railroad, and with an access road on a blind curve entering a state highway that will permanently damage wetlands, vernal pools, and core forests. There are well credentialed environmental experts, including Dr. Michael Klemens, former chair of Salisbury’s P&Z, as well as the former director of migratory bird management at the US Fish and Wildlife Service, and an RF engineer testifying to alternative approaches, plus three attorneys representing intervenors. It is the most professional challenge I have seen at CSC since Falls Village successfully mounted one that protected Robbins Swamps several years ago.
The hearing is ongoing, with uncertain results. To see what it takes today to stop an inappropriate tower siting, see Docket #543 under “Pending Matters” at https://portal.ct.gov/csc before removing local cell tower regs – the lowest hanging fruit that any town can possess in case it’s needed.
B, Blake Levitt is the Communications Director at The Berkshire-Litchfield Environmental Council. She writes about how technology affects biology.