Thank you!
Your support is sustaining the future of local news in our communities.

Progress Report From the Patagonia Front


Combing the Eastern flanks for the snow-capped Andes mountains and the foothills of Patagonia, we have so far hunted down 22 distinct species of raptors, birds of prey, of Argentina. They include, of course, the Andean condor, as well as our special targets: the powerful, black-chested mora eagle and the magnificent crested eagle. High in the mountains we saw wild guanacos and other evidence of prey species.

Viewing distances have generally been too great for good bird photography, but we did get close-up photos of three juvenile mora eagles, perched and waiting for their parents to serve them their usual fare of jackrabbit.

We drove northwest from Esquel and Trevelin,where Welsh immigrants settled in the last century, toward the Parque National Los Alerces, home of the giant alerce tree, similar to our redwoods. We descended into a gorgeous, fertile ranching valley — reminiscent of the way Jackson Hole, Wyo., used to look, in the old days before the invention of the ranchette.


u u u


Watered by the Rio Desaguerdo, this valley, we thought, is the perfect place for ranching and fishing — especially if you are on the run from the IRS, the U.S. Marshal Service or Homeland Security, for some reason. So, guess what? This valley turned out to be the retirement retreat of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. No, really!

Paul Newman and Robert Redford left this part out:"Los bandidos," Cassidy and Sundance, came here, took up ranching, had 300 head of cattle, 1,500 sheep and 28 "good saddle horses." But it is said they were falsely accused of robbing an Argentine bank, fled leaving all behind, then really robbed a bank, and were killed in a shootout in Bolivia.

(I refer, of course, to Cassidy and Sundance, not Newman and Redford, who went on to perfectly respectable acting careers.)

Some of the flavor of the old Wild West is still here today. The narrow-gauged "La Trochita" or "Old Patagonian Express" train still steams its way at nearly 30 km/hr (17 mph) once a week from El Maiten south to Esquel.

It passes through every manner of scenery, including arid mountains, hills, cattle and horse ranches, pampas, swamps and ponds, with Argentine ducks, geese, graceful white and black-necked swans and pink flamingos.

 


u u u

 

 


How about the people? At the risk of over-generalization, the natives here are friendly — except when behind the wheel of any moving vehicle, other than a horse. They tend to be a mixed bag, mainly of Spanish, but also other Europeans, such as Celts, and local Mapuche Indians (et al), with a noticeable influx of Germans toward the end of World War II for some reason. They speak Spanish with an Italian flavor.

Argentina is now going through a difficult, if somewhat belated, period of reconciliation to the Guerra Sucia, the dirty war of 1976 to 1983, with its disparados. Some witnesses to these events are still disappearing today.

 


u u u

 

 


On the brighter side, there appears to be a national policy to bring young Argentinians rapidly into the 21st century world of the Internet and cell phone, thereby leapfrogging unnecessary investments in more telephone poles and snail-mail postal services.

Most towns and villages have one or even several subsidized, low-cost cyber-centers with as many as 20 or 30 computer terminals, relieving people from having to buy their own equipment. A fringe benefit for us is that, if you can master the Spanish-language computer, you can keep in touch with North American family and friends, and The Lakeville Journal. That’s progress.

 


Sharon resident Anthony Piel, a former legal counsel of the World Health Organization, is traveling in Argentina..

Latest News

Bed Race returns to North Canaan Saturday night, still time to register

The Royal Flush won the bed race in 2025.

John Coston

NORTH CANAAN — The Annual Bed Race will return to Summer Nights of Canaan on Saturday July 18, following the Fireman’s Parade at 6 p.m.

Now a Summer Nights tradition, and before that, a staple of Railroad days since the early 1990s — the Bed Race is back after being revived in recent years by Will and Samantha Perotti. After the event lay dormant for several years, the couple volunteered to take it over and have been working to grow participation.

Keep ReadingShow less
Grand jury indicts Cole Bushnell on murder, evidence tampering charges

Cole Bushnell appears in Berkshire Superior Court on Thursday after a grand jury indicted him on charges of murder and evidence tampering.

Madi Long

An Ashley Falls man whose arrest drew attention on both sides of the Massachusetts-Connecticut border has been indicted on charges of murder and evidence tampering in connection with the June 1 killing of Michael A. Moore, a former Falls Village resident.

A Berkshire County grand jury has indicted Cole Bushnell, 41, on charges of murder and evidence tampering in the death of Moore, 40, of Winsted. The evidence tampering count is a new felony charge, with prosecutors alleging that Bushnell attempted to destroy his cellphone following the killing to conceal evidence.

Keep ReadingShow less

Angry bees close Mudge Pond Beach

Angry bees close Mudge Pond Beach

Officials closed the Sharon town beach at Mudge Pond on Wednesday, July 15, after a fallen tree limb exposed a large beehive. The beach is expected to reopen Thursday.

Alec Linden

SHARON – The town beach on Mudge Pond closed on Wednesday, July 15, but the cause wasn’t the smoky haze drifting in from Canadian wildfires – it was angry bees.

According to Sharon’s Parks and Recreation Director Bryan Failla, a large limb fell from an old tree near the lifeguard stand overnight, exposing a hole that houses a large beehive. He said the town made the decision to close the beach Wednesday morning “out of an abundance of caution.”

Keep ReadingShow less
google preferred source

Want more of our stories on Google? Click here to make us a Preferred Source.

Millerton dressmaker forged path as early businesswoman
Mary Kisselbrack, left, and her husband, George.
Provided

If you’ve driven down Main Street in Millerton, you’ve passed the former home and shop of one of the village’s earliest female entrepreneurs. At a time when most businesses were owned by men, Mary Kisselbrack made a name for herself in the late 1800s as a well-respected milliner and dressmaker.

On April 11, 1891, train conductor George Kisselbrack purchased a 124-by-232-foot vacant lot at 54 Main St. and hired locally renowned builders Beers and Trafford to design what would become their home and Mary’s business.

Keep ReadingShow less
Wastewater project coming to fruition after decades of debate

Millerton’s business community will soon see the completion of a public wastewater system, addressing what local officials and business owners have called a major constraint on commercial development in the community for decades.

The $13.8 million project, which is expected to serve the core of the Village of Millerton and a commercial stretch of the Town of North East along U.S. Route 44, represents one of the largest infrastructure investments in the community in decades, and brings an end to calls for a sewer system that stretch back to World War II. Officials say the system will safeguard local waterways while creating a foundation for long-term economic stability.

Keep ReadingShow less
Millerton Moviehouse marks 120 years with structural upgrades

Wooden beams made from tree trunks comprise the load-bearing structure under Millerton’s Moviehouse.

Graham Corrigan

There are a handful of buildings that have stood the test of time over Millerton’s 175-year history. But if there’s one that stands out as a singular representation of the town, it’s the Millerton Moviehouse and its iconic clock tower.

Built in 1903 as a grange hall, it was soon converted into a movie theater with a second-floor ballroom. It was one of a handful of buildings that came to define the town in the following decades, standing tall across the street from the Episcopal Church and Millerton Inn, next to Terni’s, and up the hill from Millerton’s train station.

Keep ReadingShow less
google preferred source

Want more of our stories on Google? Click here to make us a Preferred Source.

google preferred source

Want more of our stories on Google? Click here to make us a Preferred Source.