A Book That Cooks Would Love

I love books about food. Some, like Thomas Keller’s “French Laundry Cookbook,” I read for amusement, because I am never going to make a Verjus sorbet or a lamb stock requiring 10 pounds of lamb bones and a calf’s foot, split. Still, it’s a fascinating read. 

But Keller’s second book, “Bouchon” — named after his second restaurant, right next to The French Laundry in Napa Valley — is bistro fare, and that means taking simple ingredients and, with some technique and considerable attention, turning out a formidable quiche or a swell roast chicken. In the book, the chef has a lot to say about the process of cooking and the importance of detail. 

So, for this first piece about books that cooks would love for a holiday gift, I chose “Bouchon,” and a recipe that represents it (and that I enjoyed making): crème caramel. Among its quirks is the fact that Keller urges the cook to allow the custard mixture to mellow in the refrigerator overnight before getting baked in a robe of burned sugar. Then unmold the dish the day after cooking it. So proceed with patience. This is a lovely dessert.

Crème Caramel

I usually tinker a bit with others’ recipes, but Keller’s I follow without question. He’s up there with Julia Child and Elizabeth David, and I don’t mess around with them, either.

Start with the caramel. First, line up eight 7- to 8-ounce ramekins (which are small bowls) or custard cups, and simmer 1 cup and 1 tablespoon of sugar with 3 tablespoons of water and 3 tablespoons of light corn syrup over a low-medium flame, stirring constantly, until the mixture turns amber-colored. This takes about 13 minutes. Then, speedily, pour the caramel into the cups, swirling the melted sugar up the sides. Cool and cover with plastic wrap. That’s it.

Now the custard. Combine 4 cups of milk with 1 1/4 cups of sugar plus 3 more tablespoons of sugar, and warm over a low flame to dissolve the sugar. In a separate bowl, whisk together 5 whole eggs and 3 egg yolks with 2 1/4 teaspoons of vanilla extract. Mix the eggs into the warm milk, strain into a container and refrigerate overnight — to mellow, Keller says.

Putting it all together: Heat the oven to 300 degrees and place the caramel ramekins in a baking pan on a baking sheet. It’s for extra insulation from the heat, the chef says. Pour hot water about halfway up around the cups in the pan and place it on the middle shelf of the oven. Check the custard after 30 minutes. When set, but still jiggly like gelatin, the custards are done. Cool and refrigerate for a day.

I should add that on my first try, I followed every word and covered the custards with plastic wrap in the oven. I thought it would melt, and it did. So the next batch I baked without cover, and all was well.

When you are finally ready to serve these little gems, place each cup in hot water for a few seconds, run a little knife between the custard and the cup, then put a dish, face down, over the top. Turn the whole thing over, and it may come out on the first try. You have waited this long. You can wait a few moments more.

And just one more note. This book is filled with big, beautiful photographs by Deborah Jones. Keller worked on the book with Jeffrey Cerciello, along with Susie Heller and the wonderful chef and food writer Michael Ruhlman. It’s a joy to read.