Local farmer wants to talk turkey

NORTH EAST — Ever wondered what it was like to eat a turkey with the Pilgrims (not so much in terms of the protocol but rather in terms of feasting on the bird itself)? Well, there’s a simple way to find out, according to Jim Archer, owner of Elk Ravine Farm. Try a heritage turkey.

Heritage turkeys are what most people believe the pilgrims ate; they are very old breeds, which Archer likened to heirloom tomatoes.

“This is an heirloom turkey,� he said. “The heritage turkeys we have to get early in the season because they grow so slow. They have a much more distinct flavor to them versus the more conventional breed that grows much faster, the birds with the big, broad, white breasts. The heritage breed resembles more of a wild turkey in body and can fly, while other turkeys are sort of earth-bound.�

Archer raises the novelty breeds at his poultry farm, including the heritage breeds of bourbon red, Narragansett and royal palm turkeys, as well as the traditional broad breasted white turkeys. He also raises chickens, geese, hens, ducks and eggs — all of which are free-range, hormone and antibiotic free and non-certified organic; they are either grass-fed or fed certified organic feed. It’s an operation Archer and his wife, Janis, take great pride in.

“I love it,� he said. “The main thing I strive for on my farm is the quality of life for the animals. That’s pretty much everything I focus on. I move them around and keep them out on the fresh grass and outside as long as we can. I don’t do anything in huge volumes because I try to focus on what I have.�

Right now that includes 90 turkeys, 60 meat birds and chickens and 275 egg-laying pullets. He also has a little more than 90 acres of land, which he has put into the protective hands of the Dutchess Land Conservancy.

“We’re firm believers in keeping all of the open land as much as we can, so we support all of their efforts and try to support local businesses. It’s just such a big, huge picture,� he said. “Without that [it’s impossible] just trying to keep control of the environment, to keep it all fresh and clean, you can lose all of it — there goes the purification of water, your air. Preserving it gives you peace of mind. If we don’t preserve it, it’s just going to be gone, and then what do you have? This is one of the last preserved places around; the land conservancy has made tremendous progress in preserving such large tracts of land.�

By setting such high standards at his farm, Archer said it can become quite costly, but it’s a risk he’s willing to take.

“We’re probably unique because the quality of the life of the animal is higher over making the profit, because if I put it in a dollar amount of what I make, that doesn’t sustain me,� he said, stressing that other farmers of course take their animals’ welfare into account as well. “The front field turkeys and their shelters are moved every other day so they get fresh, green grass. As people drive by they see them, and that sells them because people can see how their food was raised. I think nowadays, with such big commercial production and problems with bacteria, etc., people should really be involved and know where their food comes from.�

But that doesn’t come cheap, Archer said. To grow a quality product it takes money. To raise animals organically it takes more money. To market products it takes even more of an investment. To help finance his farm operation, Archer runs a second business as a fence contractor. He said that helps fund his real passion – farming.

“I do this because I love it,� he said.

Elk Ravine Farm is located at 819 County Route 83, in the town of North East. To contact Archer and reserve a turkey or other bird for the holidays, call 518-398-0808.