Merger makes the moos in Cornwall

CORNWALL — Two families gathered around the breakfast table on a recent Saturday morning. They were talking business, but it was with passion and a sense of excitement. The youngsters in the family were part of the equation, too, and there was an underlying sense that they have hit on a formula that can’t be beat.

At Hedgerows Farm on Cream Hill, the Cain and Jurgilewicz families have combined their Angus herds in hopes of creating high-quality Angus both for beef and as seed stock.

“There is a growing concern about food sources. People want to know where it comes from,� said Dan Cain.

He has watched with interest as more and more people look to put locally raised meat on their table. Initially, it was an “elite� movement. Dinner party hosts would serve their city friends prime meat, and be able to name the animal from which it came. But more and more, the trend caught on.

People were willing to pay somewhat higher prices, and began to understand how supporting local producers would help maintain the rural lifestyle that attracts many people to the area.

When Cain, a New York City investment banker, and his wife, Cathy, purchased the Cream Hill farm, it was a fixer-upper.

“It was owned by Rachel Breck, who was Benny Goodman’s sister-in-law, but who made a name for herself with her Angus herd,� Cain said. “It looked like she put all her efforts into the herd. The house was pretty neglected.�

Breck, who died in 2007 at the age of 98, was a descendant of Cornelius Vanderbilt.

Cain said he was fascinated with the wealth of stones on the land, from which he built long walls and a small barn up by the orchard. The barn looks as if it has been there for centuries.

They restored the house and Cathy, originally from Long Island, embraced the country life, planting gardens and canning everything in sight.

They have even been raising and slaughtering pigs.

Their son, Billy, 12, became a true farm kid, joining 4-H and raising and showing Holsteins. By nature more gentle than Angus, they are often taken from their moms at birth and nurtured by humans.

Meanwhile, in nearby Washington, Conn., Mark and Audra Jurgilewicz were renting a farm. Both were in 4-H as kids, and studied agricultural education in high school and later at the University of Connecticut (which is where they met). Mark took a job as a New Britain firefighter and then he and Audra married and began raising a family. Laine is now 17, Kelsey is 11 and Ty is 6.

At one point, Jurgilewicz worked as many as three jobs while the couple worked at fulfilling their dream.

“We just wanted to have a farm and raise our family on it,� said Audra.

Since they began renting the farm 15 years ago, they expanded the Angus herd to 45, with careful culling and some setbacks along the way. They planted hay and corn and looked for ways to be self-sufficient as farmers.

When Cain recently placed an ad, looking for help to expand his own herd, he found, instead, a partner family.

“Actually, our kids knew each other. Billy and Kelsey are both in 4-H, and we’ve all seen each other at the Goshen Fair,� Audra said.

Mark retired from firefighting and the Jurgilewicz family moved into the caretaker’s house at Hedgerows.

Their second day there, they had a chimney fire. It wasn’t a bad one, and Cain can now look back and laugh at how the family met their neighbors at 5 a.m. while standing in their pajamas in the road, and how Mark had to stand back and let other firemen do the job while he looked on.

“We were off to a too-exciting start,� Cain said.

Now they are ready for the day-to-day routine that only a true farmer could love.

Rachel Breck, the families explained with much reverence, was hugely successful in her own right, and gets more credit for doing so in what was then a “man’s world.�

“She was called the First Lady of the Angus Industry,� Audra said.

Even though she has passed away, her spirit and inspiration live on at Hedgerows. When the Cain’s bought the property, they had to change the farm’s name. They added “Angus,� but can now use the original name.

“People used to come from all over to buy Rachel’s seed stock. We want to restore that luster to the herd,� Cain said.

Mark Jurgilewicz said that in addition to selling stock, they also want to raise animals that will earn a reputation as exceptional beef. The meat will be sold in bulk.

“Maybe a quarter or half a cow,� he said. “They can have a whole cow if they want it. Eventually, we hope to get into things like party packages, but right now, we have to cull the herd and breed the best. It’s not about numbers, but good, quality animals.�

All of their beef will be USDA inspected and processed at an approved facility.

There is another goal that pushes them all out of bed and into the barn each morning: They are mounting a battle against the demise of farming.

“Farming is not creating a career opportunity for the next generation,� Cain said. “You have to love it, because if a kid is going to take over, he knows he’s not going to make much money at it.�

Jurgilewicz talks about how regulated milk prices don’t give dairy farmers even what it costs to produce milk, and adds, “Only 2 percent of the American population is now involved in agriculture.�

When the time comes, their children, who have taken to the life, will be able to make an informed choice, and hopefully have a profitable business they will be passionate about sustaining.

Audra Jurgilewicz sees 4-H as their cornerstone. Her description also describes what the two families are doing.

“4-H is sort of the social side of agriculture. It brings together people who can be very different, but who all buy into the same values.�

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