Picante’s joins a restaurant scene in bloom in North Canaan

 NORTH CANAAN — Picante’s recent restaurant opening is proof (twice over) that lack of proper signage or advertising is not enough to stop locals from seeking authentic and novel Mexican food.

José Reyes, Picante’s North Canaan co-owner and general manager, said on Saturday afternoon, Aug. 24,  that although the restaurant had been open for little over one week (the opening was Aug. 16) and the street sign still read Town Line Pizza Restaurant (there was a small roadside placard identifying it as Picantes), they are already serving nearly 250 guests per night.

The eatery lies near the Massachusetts border and is situated between the Connecticut State Police Troop B North Canaan Barracks and Ghi Sign Services (which Reyes said designed a temporary sign for them).

“I had been trying to get in touch with the  Town Line Pizza owner for the past two years,” said Reyes. “I got a call just last month from the owner, who is in Greece. And then things moved very fast. It was good in a way. Yesterday, we had 240 people. We have been packed every single night.”

Whether the customers find them through social media or simply from the smell of authentic Mexican cuisine, Picante’s South West Mexican Grill Cantina and Restaurant had overcome similar challenges in the past. Lack of street signage didn’t stop customers from flocking to the original Picante’s, which opened in July 2017 and still operates in Lakeville. 

That restaurant (which lies between Manna Dew Catering Company and The Inn at Iron Masters) had had a rotating roster of restaurants, most recently B&F Burgers and Frites. 

Reyes said that the B&F sign remained in place for months after the Picante’s 2017 opening because the property owner had originally objected to Picante’s erecting a new sign. (A Picante’s street sign now stands at the Lakeville restaurant).

“We had been planning to open Picante’s North Canaan on Labor Day weekend,” Reyes said, explaining that the 2,500-square-foot eatery is awaiting a liquor license so it can serve the margaritas and other cocktails currently available in the Lakeville branch. 

He added, “Customers at Picante’s North Canaan are currently welcome to bring their own bottle of wine, liquor, or beer. We charge no corkage fee.”

Meanwhile, as of the middle of last week, the new sign had been installed.

The interior of the eatery is already decorated in a traditional south-of-the-border style, with walls that are maroon with charcoal trim. The walls are decorated with black-and-white photo portraits of classic Mexican entertainers such as singer Juan Gabriel and actress Maria Félix.

Colorful metallic lizard sculptures dot the wall. The large dining room’s many tables have serape-inspired tablecloths and table runners; the brightly colored cloth napkins are canary-colored.

With co-owner and manager Fernando Galicia, Reyes said that once he gets all the necessary permits he would like to host events at the North Canaan location: live bands, a dedicated bar area, and certain dishes to be prepared right at the table for the customers’ entertainment. 

Reyes also hinted at the possible opening of another Picante’s, about one hour away in southern Connecticut. 

“We will let people know when all of this available,” Reyes said. “For right now, people are welcome to come to North Canaan for the food and Lakeville for both food and cocktails.”

Servers Johan Arango, Juliana Bonett and Victor Bardas greeted visitors with friendly and efficient service last Saturday. The clientele was a combination of curious locals getting take-out, foodies seeking the fairly rare Northwest Corner Mexican cuisine, birthday celebrants  and dedicated patrons of the Lakeville branch who had come to check out the new place.

“I’ve seen people excited to see something different in the area,” Reyes commented. “People are very friendly. Some people didn’t know we are in Lakeville, too. But now we are on the way to Great Barrington, so we get that traffic, too.” 

Reyes emphasized that Picante’s North Canaan is not Tex-Mex or any other fusion style of cooking.

“We are authentic Mexican cuisine,” Reyes said. 

The only downside of that: “Everything is homemade and the dishes take time. You can’t order and get it within minutes.”

Reyes is confident, though, that once people have tasted the food they will feel it’s worth the wait.

“I don’t want to do anything less than the best,” he said.

The most popular items so far on Picante’s North Canaan’s extensive menu have included the fajitas, which come with a choice of meats plus tortillas, rice, beans, sour cream and tomatillo salsa, all served on a sizzling cast iron dish (prices range from $16 for just chicken on up to $27 for the chicken, steak and shrimp combo platter). 

Also popular are dishes cooked and served in the molcajete, a traditional handmade Oaxacan stone bowl (prices range from $16 for the chicken molcajete to $25 for skirt steak). 

There are also tamales, in larger and smaller sizes ($9 or $7); rolled, stuffed and fried flautas ($10);  tacos, enchiladas, burritos, nachos, guacamole and more. 

Two customers at the restaurant that afternoon who just happened to order some of those items commented they were “wowed” by the food and presentation. 

Mike Farmer of North Canaan, a take-out customer who was waiting for his order, observed that,  “They’ve done a lot of work with the place. It’s a great thing.”

Picante’s North Canaan is located at 449 Ashley Falls Road (Route 7). The hours are Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. (they are closed Sundays). They can be reached at 860-453-4313. Go to www.picantescanaan.com for hours, reservations, menu choices and to order meals to go.