Frank Way has found success in his newest venture, called simply frank. It opened May 12 on the West Cornwall, Conn., property that was known for many years as the Pink House (although it is now a more subtle shade of cream).
The new eatery is in a barn space/carriage house behind the formerly pink building; its owner is a former New York City “branding” executive whose first food venture was frank.food on Main Street in Kent, Conn.
Previously a creative director for major brands, living in California and New York, Way decided he “wanted to do something with more integrity, something more related to being in Connecticut.” So, when a friend suggested Way open a food shop in Kent, he did.
“I’d never owned a shop like that before,” he said. “But, I was just building a brand, and I’d done that my whole career.”
In 2017, frank.food company opened its doors as a breakfast and lunch place and was a wild and immediate success, with long lines out the door. The restaurant maintained its popularity even as the pandemic closed down other restaurants and put an end to “dining out.” With COVID-19, Way adapted by reducing the size of the staff and by catering gourmet meals.
“We survived the pandemic by reinventing ourselves so did not close as a result of it,” Way said.
“I ended up closing the location after Thanksgiving last November because Kent became an over-saturated market. And that gave me the time to fully focus on getting the restaurant open.”
Moving to West Cornwall
In the time before frank.food closed down, the West Cornwall Development Group had asked Way if he’d like to open a restaurant in West Cornwall. He did and began planning for the new, larger eatery.
But as with all renovations during the pandemic years, there were supply chain interruptions that kept pushing back the date of the restaurant opening.
A particular refrigeration glue from China never seemed to come, for example.
However, Way said, “I just got really patient and focused on building the space and making it beautiful.” All in all, he said, “there were delays, but only for about 3 months.”
When you enter the new frank.food, the space opens to a high vaulted ceiling with a welcoming 3-foot tall “HI” in carved letters. Taxidermy and hooked rugs hang on the whitewashed barn walls. For Way, it’s “very eclectic, homey and bright.”
A walnut tree cut down during construction has been transformed into gorgeous wood tabletops.
“I love the local story,” said Way. “We were able turn a tree we had to lose into something really precious.”
Along with 35 seats around the walnut tables, there are eight bar seats. Outside, on a flagstone patio perched above the Housatonic River, there are an additional 36 seats.
The long-awaited opening proved worth the wait, apparently. “I’m doing probably three full seatings each a night,” Way said. “Which is ridiculous.”
Happily, his staff has risen to the challenge. “I’m taxing my kitchen like nothing else, and they’re really performing well.”
John Carlson is the chef for frank.food. Some of the other staff are new to the restaurant world, and are learning together. But they’ve learned enough to stay open for a Memorial Day brunch that had to end at 1 p.m., when the restaurant ran out of food.
First, there is pizza
So, what’s on the menu? Way said, “We wanted to keep the menu really accessible.”
This starts with a Neapolitan-style pizza program, featuring three $16 pies: the classic margherita with just basil, mozzarella and tomatoes; soppressata with hot honey and oregano; and white pizza with lemon ricotta, asparagus and peas.
One favorite item on the menu is the kale salad ($13), which has had rave reviews.
“It was kind of how I paid my rent in Kent,” Way said of the winning appetizer.
Main course choices include the burger on brioche, made with grass-fed beef from Cornwall’s Hurlburt farm ($19); wild cod and chips ($24); and a buttermilk brined chicken ($24).
To finish, Way keeps his customers on their toes, often switching the dessert menu around. He said, “I’ll make devil’s food cake one week or High Five Pies another.”
Brunch keeps the local burger, adding a French toast casserole, avocado toast, a quiche of the day and an omelet of the day. Way plans to soon add a grain bowl with farro, spinach and a poached egg.
For now the restaurant is only open Thursday through Saturday for dinner; and Saturday and Sunday for lunch. The full future vision is to increase hours, and offer a coffee service, perhaps with a light breakfast or a lunch.
For now, Way is focused on establishing the restaurant’s rhythm and spreading the name.
“I feel it’s important that people understand that ‘frank food’ is not about my name,” Way said. “It’s about what it is to be sincere and honest. My food is honest to goodness food, it’s elevated home cooking.”
frank.food company is open for dinner Thursday through Saturday, 5 to 9:30 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Learn more at www.frankfoodco.com or call 860-248-3250.
Dick Hermans in the Oblong Bookstore on Millerton’s Main Street in 1985.Provided
