Fall brought two additions to the growing southern Berkshires café and bar scene with the opening of the lounge-like natural wine purveyor Half Rats in late August, followed by beloved North Canaan specialty roastery ilse coffee installing its second location on Railroad Street in mid-November.
Head up to Great Barrington this holiday season to caffeinate, then ingurgitate (in moderation) – just don’t forget to hydrate.
The bright interior of ilse is simple and elegant.Alec Linden
(47 Railroad Street, Great Barrington, Massachusetts). Hours: Thursday - Monday, 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Sunday open at 9 a.m.
Stylized lowercase, this sleek coffee brand does away with pretense and lets the brew speak for itself. Sourced ethically and with a focus on partnerships between producers, consumers and the roastery itself, a black coffee at ilse is served on a tidy tray in a clear glass mug, alongside a ceramic cup for the drinker to transfer the elixir into at their leisure. The whole set up feels emblematic of the transparency and collaboration at the core of the roastery’s ethos.
Situated in the airy space formerly occupied by Marjoram + Roux, the new coffeehouse builds on the concept inaugurated by ilse’s first public location in a converted auto body shop in North Canaan. Rebecca Grossman, who co-founded and co-owns the business with her fiancée, Lucas Smith, is local to the area, leading the couple to move roasting operations north from Stamford when they decided to expand from the wholesale production they had focused on the previous four years.
ilse’s sleek coffee packaging and merch lineup is eye-catching beneath the register.Alec Linden
With the new shop, the brand moves even further into the food-and-beverage service game, aiming to build out a full breakfast and lunch menu as it ramps up operations on Railroad Street. Currently, the bites on offer are primarily provided by Canaan-based baker Pastries By Hanna, with the addition of one item produced in-house: a fluffy scone stuffed with cream and jam – Smith’s mother’s recipe; she’s English. In the coming months, the open kitchen that takes up about half of the café’s interior will roar to life as the team develops the culinary program.
Stylistically, the space follows the minimal, elegant example set by the North Canaan location, but lower ceilings, tighter quarters and a communal table that abuts the bustle of the above-mentioned open kitchen make for a decidedly cozier atmosphere. Tuck yourself into a window seat and sip a cup of steaming, ethically-sourced coffee while gazing down at the brick-lined streets beneath the hulking ridgeline of East Mountain, and you’ll find it easy to remember why you love the Berkshires.
The comfortable lounge area, where games and wine-related literature are available for those who have exhausted their conversation quotas.Alec Linden
(343 Main Street, Great Barrington, Massachusetts). Hours: Wednesday and Sunday, 4 p.m. to 9 p.m.; Thursday – Saturday 4 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Natural wine and resurrected Victorian slang are unlikely partners in Abby Pendergist’s new downtown venture that happily marries modern tastes with classic appeal.
“Half Rats” references 19th-century parlance meaning slightly tipsy, or buzzed, which is exactly what guests are invited to become – responsibly, of course – as they swill Pendergist’s rotating ensemble of natural wines from around the world. The snobbery that sometimes hangs over wine-forward enterprises is nowhere to be found here, perhaps booted out by the semi-deranged rodents who decorate the menus, clearly half rats themselves. Instead, the vibe is decidedly relaxed, inviting drinkers to approach the wines with an open and playful attitude.
The space, designed and decorated by Pendergist with help from her boyfriend, Nick Speidel, indicates a well-practiced eye is behind the madness. Located within the tall brick walls of the 1924 Whalen & Kastner Garage, Pendergist has tastefully decked out the room with quirky paintings, a hemlock sapling adorned with string lights, rat-themed T-shirts and the taxidermized head of an antelope wearing an evergreen garland as a necklace. Memorabilia is all around – Pendergist has a background in selling antique clothes, including at a former brick and mortar on Railroad Street.
Paintings and palm fronds are just two of many types of idiosyncratic decor that fills the room at Half Rats.Alec Linden
Amid the mayhem, there is a carefully-wrought logic to the space. Guests freely move from seats at the pounded steel bar to a comfortable lounge, where games and wine literature await, or simply peruse the walls as one might in a gallery. A massive communal table dominating the center of the room is highly modular in its function, hosting large parties of wine drinkers or pumpkin carving contests alike. Several window tables and high-tops offer couples seeking a quieter drink the opportunity to do so with some privacy.
Like everything else, the menu is eclectic and changeable. A core selection of Pendergist’s favorite bottles remain while others rotate, though no bottle is safe from being swapped out. In addition to the main lineup, special bottles are also on offer until they run out. On a recent Thursday, a chilled and unchilled red, both Austrian, graced the specials menu, joined by another red, this one Georgian, as well as a Portuguese orange and a white gleaned from the faraway lands of Maine.
A short, rotating list of craft beers, alongside cheaper standards ($4-$5), are also available, as well as non-alcoholic options such as Mexican coke and espresso. Simple but enticing bar snacks — including olives, a goat cheese plate and “Spanish skewers” of anchovy, olives and pepper — are also available for those who like a snack with their Syrah.
For those who want to bring the experience home, small souvenirs and knickknacks, including Christmas cards, are available for sale at the bar. A Syrah, and snack and a sticker it is, then.
Olana State Historic Site, the hilltop home created by 19th-century Hudson River School painter Frederic Edwin Church, rises above the Hudson River on a clear winter afternoon.
2026 marks the 200th anniversary of Church’s birth, making this a particularly timely moment to take in what he created during his lifetime. Church — one of the most notable artists of the Hudson River School movement — was an accomplished landscape painter who gained a reputation as an artist-traveler.
From South America and Western Europe to the Middle East and the Caribbean, Church sought out dramatic, epic scenes that he could capture on canvas and bring back to the U.S. to sell. The profits from those works, in turn, allowed him to create a breathtaking masterwork of his own: Olana.
Olana rises above the Hudson River like a mirage, its Persian-inspired facade an unexpected sight amid the barren winter landscape. With miles of trails, visitors can take in the natural splendor of rolling hills and the river from every angle. From the house itself, the view stretches across the Catskills, a layered panorama of soft blues and silvers that appears all the more dazzling in winter.
A window at Olana.By Brian Gersten
Inside the home, the sense of awe deepens. Olana’s interior is rich with color, pattern and texture — warm reds, stenciled walls, intricate woodwork — a striking counterpoint to the monochrome world outside. Light pours through tall windows, framing the Hudson Valley like living paintings.
Every corner of the house pays tribute to the far-flung places Church visited throughout his career. From architectural details to the objects he collected and displayed, visitors are transported to another world. Walking from room to room feels less like touring a house museum and more like stepping into the mind of an artist transfixed by the staggering beauty of the world around him.
As I made my way back down the hill, the winter light fading fast, I felt refreshed in a way that only comes from seeing something anew. Olana is not just a monument to one artist, but a testament to a way of viewing the world — one that values observation, patience and reverence for the natural environment. For those looking to venture out during the colder months and to be reminded why this region has inspired generations of artists and dreamers, there may be no better place to start than Olana.
Olana State Historic Site is located at 5720 State Route 9G, Hudson, New York. For more information and to purchase tours, visit: olana.org
The dining room at OlanaBy Brian Gersten
Berkshire Hills Ski League includes Washington Montessori School, Indian Mountain School, Rumsey Hall and Marvelwood School.
The league includes a mix of private and public schools. HVRHS competed against Washington Montessori School, Indian Mountain School, Rumsey Hall and Marvelwood School.
Rumsey Hall competes in the Berkshire Hills Ski League.Photo by Tom Brown
Conditions were ideal for slalom skiing at Mohawk, albeit cold for spectators with the temperature in the teens. Approximately 20-inches of snow fell earlier in the week.
Mohawk will continue to host weekly meets of the BHSL each Wednesday through the end of the season. The league championship will take place Feb. 25.
There was lots of fresh powder on Mohawk Mountain Jan. 28 after approximately 20 inches fell earlier in the week.Photo by Tom Brown
