Maple sugaring: a process born from tradition

The sugaring season here in northwest Connecticut is now in full swing. Driving along our country roads you can see the signs: buckets of all kinds attached to maple trees (and sometimes non-maple trees!), plastic tubing along hillsides making its way from tree to tree to the ultimate collection point and steam billowing from local sugar houses. Though the equipment varies from the rudimentary to the high tech, the principle is simple: boil maple sap, which is approximately 97 percent water and 3 percent sugar, to evaporate the water concentrating the sugar to approximately 67 percent. Nothing is added. Syrup boils at 7 degrees above the boiling point of water. So, if you put a candy thermometer into your boiling solution and it reads 219 degrees Fahrenheit, your syrup is done. If it reads higher than 219, you have passed syrup and are on your way to making maple candy. No big deal for the backyard sugar maker, really; it’s sweeter and it tastes great, but it may crystallize in your jars. However, for the commercial sugar maker or for people who bottle and store large quantities of syrup, accuracy is important. Most medium-sized producers use a syrup hydrometer to test the sugar content of the syrup by measuring the density of the solution. There are also computer-powered meters that take all the guesswork out of it!The different grades of syrup often cause confusion. The darker syrup is not boiled longer, it does not have a different sugar content, and nothing is added to make it darker. The process is the same. Typically, the syrup becomes darker toward the end of the season when more minerals and nutrients are evident in the sap. Also, as the weather continues to get warmer, the sap becomes subjected to sugar-eating bacteria which are killed during the boiling process but tend to reduce the sugar content of the sap thus requiring a longer boiling time. The quicker sap is boiled into syrup, the lighter the grade will be. If the process is stopped and started a number of times before a batch is made, the syrup will be darker — which, based on the opinion of most people I talk to is a good thing!Now a quick word about the equipment. Regardless of what it looks like, an evaporator is a big pot that boils sap. In fact many a pint of syrup has been made in backyards using spaghetti pots. It takes a while, and the syrup will be of the darker variety, but it is a fun family activity. Just don’t try it indoors without an extremely good ventilation fan as that much steam has a habit of loosening wallpaper and wreaking other havoc. The next step up is a backyard sugar maker rig, which is typically a 55-gallon drum on its side that acts as a firebox, with a stainless steel flat pan sitting on an opening cut into the drum.Past that, the sky’s the limit. A typical commercial evaporator consists of an arch (firebox) and two pans connected together. The back pan or flue pan is the larger of the two and has flues or groves in the bottom of it so that the fresh sap is heated fast and furiously on three sides. From the back pan, the sap flows into the front pan or syrup pan. This is a flat pan that heats the sap only from the bottom and allows for more control. As water is evaporated off, sap flows across the pan through partitions with the most concentrated solution being at the far end of the flow. This is where it is tested and drawn off when finished, enabling the sugar maker to draw off syrup without cooling down the evaporator or stopping the process.The more high-tech units look something like what you would find in a sci-fi movie. They can be oil- or gas-fired, have steam hoods for efficiency and include computer controlled electronic draw-off units where syrup is drawn off automatically at exactly the right time. Reverse osmosis machines are also used by bigger producers. These machines extract a large percentage of the water in the sap using membranes before it gets to the evaporator. Because of the reduced boiling time, these producers can make lighter syrup more consistently and reduce labor costs. At Audubon, we prefer the traditional method where you can see the sap boiling, hear the crackle of the fire and smell the steam as it billows to the top of the sugarhouse. To experience this for yourself, visit the Sharon Audubon Center for MapleFest, our maple syrup open house, March 17 from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Scott Heth is the director of Audubon Sharon and can be reached at sheth@audubon.org, (subject line: Nature Notes).

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