At Railroad Square Café, high-speed Internet and unhurried meals

CORNWALL — On a recent  not-too-hot day, tables on the porch of a new cafe here in town included a young woman with a laptop, a man reading a newspaper and three women who were having lunch together.

For Susan Kochman, who recently opened the Railroad Square Café across from the former West Cornwall depot, it was the perfect picture of what she wants the eatery to be: Come as you are, do what you want and stay as long as you like.

“I like to think of it more as a gathering place,� Kochman said, acknowledging that, yes, the cafe has the rumored wireless Internet service.

She is quick to add that this new business is a family affair. Husband Greg and grown daughters Sarah, Heather and Meghan all sort of tag team the work over the course of the Friday-through-Sunday (at least for now) 9-a.m.-to-3-p.m. hours. Two-year-old granddaughter Hazel comes in to taste test the brownies.

Kochman has been making major changes of late. After 20 years, she is handing off her West Cornwall-based New England Catering and Food Company to her daughters (although she will still lend a hand and her expertise).

The cafe, which will also serve as a private party venue, will be seasonal (at least for now). Kochman has also taken over as the food service director at The Gilbert School in Winsted.

Welcoming diners as she would to her nearby home (Susan and Greg live just on the other side of the river, in Sharon) is not difficult. Many diners get a sense of déjà vu when they enter the new restaurant.

“I’ve been collecting antiques and all sorts of things for years,� Kochman said. “We’re looking to downsize, so I’m bringing things here to use and sell. People who have been to my home have been recognizing some of my stuff.�

A shopping cart from circa the 1930s holds bags of pretzels. A French door made into a tabletop inlaid with found objects from nature (decorated by Heather) is the only large table in the dining room. An old checkerboard, set up in a comfy corner, has buttons for checkers. It gets a lot of playing time, as does the WiFi system.

While you can pretty much be and do whatever you want at the Railroad Square Café, there are not so many options when it comes to food. That’s because Kochman insists on using the freshest ingredients possible. The menu is found only on a blackboard that takes up most of one wall. Offerings start with what is available from local farmers. Of late, fresh-picked greens and beets have been the stars.

While a recent menu included new classics such as a three-cheese grilled panini, Kochman also loves to surprise. The tuna sandwich was curried, with pineapple, currants and coconuts, and came on black bread.

Breakfast is a homey affair. One can have pastries or bagels (the latter the only baked goods not made on site), with or without lox, or Kochman’s breakfast pie.

“We’re keeping it simple so we can keep it really good. The pie is bacon, eggs, cheese and potatoes.�

She cannot say “casual� too many times when it comes to describing her goals at the cafe.

While take-out is available, “What I’m hoping is that this will become not the place to go if you want to get in and out in a hurry. I’m not talking about the service. I want it to be the place where you come to relax and chat and not be in a hurry.�

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