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Taking In a Museum Makeover

Hartford's Wadsworth Atheneum has been much ballyhooed by art writers and publications since its great unveiling. Like the doyenne it is — the Atheneum opened in 1844 and is the country's oldest, continuously operating art museum — it could have chosen one of those new buildings or additions that add lifeless and mostly useless space.

Instead, museum director Susan L. Talbott, who joined the Atheneum in 2008, abandoned plans for an expensive addition — among other things, the money wasn't there — and embarked on a $33-million upgrade: repairs and refurbishment that enhanced gallery space. Centerpiece of the effort is the redone Morgan Memorial building.

The two-story 1910 Morgan Memorial was the gift of J. P. Morgan in memory of his father, J. S. Morgan. Hidden behind the off-putting Gothic revival Wadsworth facade, the Morgan Memorial is now full of light, color from walls and pictures, and a clever mix of the museum's two greatest strengths: Baroque art and a truly remarkable, popular cabinet of curiosities. Of course the major movements of late 19th-  and early 20th- century art are covered, too; but more in a one-of-this, one-of-that fashion. 

The centerpiece of the Morgan Memorial is the Great Hall, now home to more than 70 paintings — a few great, some good, some mediocre — hung side by side and clambering over each other as they climb the double-height, dark blue walls. The hanging was inspired by the museum's own “The Picture Gallery of Cardinal Silvio Valenti Gonzaga,” painted by Giovanni Paolo Panini in 1749. This magnificent picture gives an aerial view of the cardinal's soaring gallery, hung cheek-to-jowl with hundreds of pictures. Of course viewing and identifying the paintings is a chore, with only a poorly conceived diagram as your guide. There is a certain amusement in watching people work with the guide in increasing frustration.

Upstairs in Morgan 2, the expanded Cabinet of Art and Curiosities shows the beginning of museum collections by scientists, aristocrats and royalty in the 18th century. Prehistoric objects stand near Egyptian jewelry and even a nautilus shell made to be a coach with gold trimming and a tiny coachman perched on top.

The other galleries in Morgan 2 begin with the museum's strongest single area, the Baroque. Caravaggio's “St. Francis of Assisi in Ecstasy,” the museum's greatest single painting, hangs near a magnificent Poussin and a tremendous Zubarán. In other galleries, pictures communicate with the Atheneum's enviable collection of porcelain figures. In the last two galleries pictures from just before and after the French Revolution are centered around a massive, sentimental painting of Louis VVI saying goodbye to his family. It was painted by an American, Mather Brown, in 1793 and overlooks some Sévres once owned by Madame de Pompadour, Louis XV's most famous mistress.

In a special exhibits section of the museum a small but fascinating show of photographs by Andy Warhol and Robert Mapplethorpe demonstrate how imagination, artistry and technique informed both men's work. Just the two photos each produced of the other are worth the whole exhibition. 

The Wadsworth Atheneum is at 600 Main St. in Hartford (just follow Route 44 into the city). The museum is open Wednesday through Sunday. Hours vary. Call 860-838-4171 or go to www.thewadsworth.org. The museum has a small, but very good cafe for lunch and tea.

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