Tea's on the menu at Harney eatery

MILLERTON — Incremental growth has been one of the keys to the success of the Harney and Sons Tea Company, which started in the Harney family basement in Salisbury more than 20 years ago, and has since grown to fill a factory in Millerton. Harney teas are sold and served at many of the finest restaurants, hotels and stores in the world; they are even the official tea sold at the restaurants and tea shops at the royal palaces in England.

And while the tea company is now a global concern, the Harney’s still have their hearts here in the Northwest Corner. The Harney Tea Tasting Room and shop in Millerton offer local tea afficionados a place to sample the many Harney blends, and to purchase everything from books (including Michael Harney’s new title, “The Harney and Sons Guide to Teaâ€) to teapots to honey from area farms.

Alexander Harney, who is the grandson of company founder John Harney Sr., started out years ago, helping in the shop and the tasting room as well as in the small cafe there that sold soup and sandwiches along with freshly brewed tea.

The restaurant is now his domain, and, as is the family tradition, it is growing, slowly.

For several years, a few small tables have been available for lunch and afternoon tea, prepared in a tiny space behind the tea shop and the cafe.

As of the end of last summer, the back of Harney & Sons Tea shop on Main Street was completely revamped. A full kitchen was installed and the menu, which had previously been salads, soups and sandwiches, was expanded to include entrees as well as desserts.

Harney worked with chef Lee Morton of Rhinebeck to create the new menu, which he described as eclectic. “We’re not locked down to specific styles of cooking, we try to mix it up.â€

The menu also seeks to pique taste buds, with specials such as pork phyllo rolls (“cigars†of pork, red peppers, mozzarella and onions, served with a spicey fra diavolo sauce) and brie en croute, stuffed with currants, figs and pears.

Many of the dishes use tea as an ingredient, of course. The pork tenderloin, for example, is prepared with a glaze of maple syrup, lapsang tea and soy sauce.

“We try to use as many local ingredients as possible,†Harney said. Salads are made with Sky Farms greens. Silimar Farm, which is across the street from the tea factory, provides ingredients during the local growing season.

Harney is working with an artisanal cheesemaker called Harper’s Field, from Jefferson, N.Y., to develop cheeses made with tea. Last week the restaurant offered samples of a Tilsit-style cheese (similar to Swiss or Emmenthal) flavored with lapsang tea.

Those who do not want to eat their tea can, of course, drink it at the eatery. The menu offers 200 tea choices, some hot and some iced.

Meals cost on average from $7 to $ 12 and include soups, sandwiches (most of them served on fresh baguettes) and the new entrees. Specials, which are offered Friday through Sunday, change weekly.

The restaurant is open from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Saturday, and from noon to 3 p.m. on Sunday. Takeout is available by calling 518-789-2121.

To find out more about the tea company, the tea shop and of course the restaurant (specials are listed online weekly), visit the shop’s new blog at harneyteashop.blogspot.com.

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