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Toasting Autumn . . . With a Glass of Sherry

Edgar Allan Poe must have loved sherry. After all, in one of his most famous tales, “The Cask of Amontillado,� a man is lured to a hideous death by the promise that he might have a taste of a very special amontillado.

Amontillado is one of several types of sherry, according to Fred Tregaskis, a wine critic who sometimes does reviews on National Public Radio and who is now the owner of New England Wine Cellars in Falls Village.

He recommends it as a wine with a main course or a cheese course.

“It has a flavor like hazelnuts and is very rich,� he said.

For before-dinner drinking, he recommends a fino or manzanilla sherry, which will be “more delicate and acidic, and is palate-cleansing.�

And “for something really decadent,� he recommends a fairly rare variety called Petro Ximenez, “which is like alcoholic fig juice. It’s like sweet tar, or molasses.�

Hardly any local dealers in fine spirits had the Petro Ximenez, but all sighed wistfully when it was mentioned. The only vendor in the area who said he usually has some is Rick Hotaling at Rick’s Wine and Spirits in Sharon (although he doesn’t have any just at the moment; call first to see if he has a bottle).

“It was quite popular in the 1970s,� said Ed Domaney of Domaney’s Discount Liquors in Great Barrington, “but now we can’t get it at all.�

Domaney agreed with Tregaskis that sherry is a particularly fine choice for fall drinking.

“Sherry warms you from the inside,� he said. “It’s wonderful to sit out on your porch or inside in front of a fire and sip a nice cream sherry, with a plate of salty cheese and some sliced apples and pears.�

The cream sherries are the sweeter sherries, along with the amontillado sherries, he said.

He and Tregaskis agreed that sherry is one of the great wine/spirit bargains available now.  

Domaney’s has a large selection, with the most expensive ones such as Lustau running about $20 to $25 for a 750 ml bottle. A good mid-range sherry will often run about $11 and Domaney said he sometimes finds delicious but obscure sherries that will sell for as little as $7 or $8.

Little Gates in Millerton and Salisbury Wines on Main Street in Salisbury both carry Hidalgo La Gitana, a manzanilla sherry that was mentioned by  New York Times wine critic Eric Asimov in a July 2008 article on sherry.

Salisbury Wines owner Warren Carter said the shop usually also stocks a manzanilla called Domecq; and an amontillado sherry from Savory and James “that’s a little darker and richer.�

Savory and James is considered one of the best mid-priced sherries; all the shops we called have it (prices vary but they generally run about $10-$13 for a 750 ml bottle that should last a while).

Rick’s Wine and Spirits carries four types of Savory and James sherries (including fino, amontillado and cream).

Other available sherries included an oloroso at Lakeville Wine and Spirits as well as Savory and James and a brand called Wisdom and Warter; a barbadillo at Little Gates; Tio Pepe at Cornwall Package Store and Lake-ville Wine and Spirits; and the once hugely popular Harvey’s Bristol Cream Sherry at Rick’s in Sharon.

 Most of our experts agreed that you can’t go wrong with a Savory and James sherry. Real sherry should come from southern Spain, Tregaskis warned, and said that one of his favorite brands is Lustau. In general, though, it’s hard to make a really bad mistake with sherry.

 â€œThey represent great value,â€� he said.

 â€œA very good sherry will cost $20 to $25 for 750 ml.â€�

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