Baking (and selling) at home


NORTH CANAAN — For Diane Fredsall, the smell of success is quite literally sweet. And why not, coming as it does from the cheesecakes, cookies and quick breads that pop, warm and fragrant, out of the tiny commercial oven in her tiny commercial kitchen in her tiny house on a residential road in North Canaan.

Fredsall has been a baker for as long as she can remember. An only child, she and her mother bonded in the kitchen of their Bantam, Conn., home baking all the classics: Christmas cookies, cupcakes, brownies ("My mother makes the best brownies in the world," Fredsall confided). Making more of a hobby

As a wife and the mother of two boys, Fredsall continued turning out buttery treats from her home kitchen. Cheesecakes became a specialty, and they tasted so good that the owner of a restaurant in Litchfield asked last year if she would bake some for him to serve to his customers.

That venture worked out well and spurred Fredsall to seek out new clients. An aunt introduced her to the manager of the LaBonne’s grocery store in Salisbury, and he ordered a supply of cakes and cookies that can now be found in the store’s deli department. Often there are individual slices of creamy layer cake for sale there, topped with frosting that is just sweet enough, embellished with a delicate spray of orange or purple sprinkles.Getting up to code

This mom’s house meets all the commercial codes and specifications, however. Once Fredsall and her husband, Tom, decided to start a kitchen cottage industry, they took out a $20,000 home equity loan and put it to good use. They knocked down one wall in their 1,800-square-foot house and expanded out into what used to be a one-car garage. Fredsall also took a class called ServSafe through Education Connection in Litchfield, and learned everything she needed to know to pass a state health inspection.

"The state inspector was so pleased and surprised when he came here," Fredsall recalled, her cheeks dimpling at the memory. "He went running around the room saying, ‘You have the sinks! You have the right kind of flooring! You have the lights!’ He was so afraid he was going to have to shut me down but we had everything we needed."

The Fredsalls are experienced do-it-yourselfers ("We redid our bathroom in a weekend," Fredsall said), and were able to finish the 150-square-foot kitchen quickly and inexpensively.

"The state inspector said this looked like a $60,000 kitchen," Fredsall said happily. "My husband is really handy, and we work well together. He is the greatest."Business is good

Fredsall didn’t begin with a business plan, so it’s hard to say if she’s met her goals yet. She really only began baking in February, but response has been very positive. Her baked goods sell like, well, hotcakes at LaBonne’s. The owner of AJs Steak and Spirits has done so well with Mrs. Fredsall cheesecakes that he has asked her to create a signature cake that will only be available at his Goshen eatery.

So far, the demand hasn’t overwhelmed her. Local zoning laws forbid her to have a staff of bakers, and Fredsall will have to carefully balance her company’s growth. She is also committed to using only fresh and natural ingredients, with no preservatives. This means, of course, that her products sometimes cost more than other store-bought goods. But a dozen cookies can be had for a reasonable $5, in 20-some varieties, including peppermint spritz, peanut butter blossom, sugar cookie cutouts, and pumpkin-raisin-walnut.

The specialty of the house are the cheesecakes, which cost $27 for a 9-inch cake and come in flavors such as pumpkin marble, peanut butter cup (Fredsall uses a fork to ridge the chocolate around the edges of the cake, so it looks as though it just came out of a candy wrapper), mint chocolate candy and lattice cherry.

Fredsall still uses "home baker" ingredients but she doesn’t buy her supplies at the nearby Stop and Shop. Although she is still baking on a relatively small scale, she orders her goods in bulk from a national supplier, U.S. Foods — the only one that would take on an account as small as hers.

The rub, however, is that she has to pick up her orders at Geer in North Canaan.

"I drive over in my Jeep, and load everything into coolers because the ingredients have to stay cold," she explained with a sigh. "I would love to be big enough someday to get home deliveries."

For more information on Mrs. Fredsall’s Bakery, call 860-824-8299, visit mrsfredsallsbakery@sbcglobal.net or stop by LaBonne’s in Salisbury.

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