Country Market has become a destination

CORNWALL — Cornwall Country Market opened, in its latest incarnation, a year ago on Nov. 1. 

Owners Idella and James Shepard could not be happier with what that year has brought. 

Business has exceeded their expectations. They have developed a following for their deli specialties and created a place where people gather and can sell their locally produced food and crafts.

“We thought we’d have five employees now,” Jim said.

“We have 12,” Idella said, putting just one aspect of their success into perspective.

Most of the workers are local high school students. On Sunday morning, there were about half a dozen of them, well-trained and happy, waiting on customers and working in the deli, where the now-famous chicken pot pies were being assembled.

“We can barely stay ahead of the demand,” Idella said. “People are really enjoying coming in to get a good, quick dinner they can reheat at home. We always have lasagna and beef stroganoff and quiches. That’s another thing we can’t make fast enough. We have vegetarian and gluten-free options, and we carry gluten-free breads and pasta.”

Cornwall Bridge and beyond have long depended on the tiny general store. In the 1930s, it was H.W. Breen’s. In the 1940s, it was Monroe and Odell’s, and at some point, just Monroe’s. The Baird family bought it in 1972 and operated it for 40 years and two generations. Dana Beecher and Louise Coogan Beecher leased and ran it for two  years as the Cornwall General Store, until June 2013.

The Shepards bought the old “Monroe’s Gen’l Store” sign from an estate sale and hung it over the coffee counter. It was the finishing touch on a store that was gutted and rebuilt over nearly five months.

They celebrate the store’s history and display various photos of it over the years. 

From the outside, there have been no major changes to its appearance. It maintains its rustic charm while offering amenities that are hard to live without these days. A flat-screen TV hangs in a corner. Wireless Internet access makes it one of the few spots in town where one can get coffee and emails, too. 

A community room hosts meetings and those who want to get a little work done during breakfast or lunch. It is not unusual to see people meeting there for job interviews. The parking lot was redone and adjoins a shady picnic area that has seen a lot of use, and the front porch is roomier now than it had been. 

A little more subtle is the vastly improved infrastructure. A new well and septic system allowed them to install public restrooms. The heating system was replaced, and there is central air conditioning for the first time, as well as a generator, which they actually used during power outages this past summer.

Electricity is being run to an old-fashioned pole sign that hadn’t been lit for about half a century.

“We had a great year, and at the same time learned a lot,” Jim said. “We got systems in place so we weren’t here every night until midnight.”

With backgrounds in hospitality, working most recently in Boston, the couple knows every aspect of how to make a business succeed, from quality control to a smile from the staff. They remain very happy with their commute and understand the commitment needed. 

“Eighteen stairs,” Idella said, referring to the distance to their home above the store.

Their children, Sage, 12, and Wolf, 9, have happily adjusted to small-town life, to their new school and to doing homework at a table in the store. There are always lots of “tutors” around.

The Shepards embrace a sense of civic-mindedness that defines Cornwall. A small wooden barrel at the checkout counter is labeled simply “Barrel of Money.” It would normally be for tips. But at Cornwall Country Market, loose change, and sometimes $5 and $10 bills, add up for monthly donations to local causes, such as the town’s food and fuel fund. They donated close to $2,000 in the past year.

For daily information, including specials, go to the Cornwall Country Market Facebook page.

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