The magic of making friends on the AT

The magic of making friends on the AT
The Mountain Turtles is the name of a group of Appalachian Trail hikers, who all met each other on the path; from left to right, each with their own unique trail names, are Wizard, Bear!, Taco, Paddle and Bugs. 
Photo by Sadie Leite

The Appalachian Trail stretches through 14 states, from Maine to Georgia — an impressively long walk of 2,193 miles for anyone who chooses to traverse its full length. Each year, more than 3 million people choose to either hike the whole trail, as “thru-hikers,” or walk it in sections. 

Beginning in late spring, hundreds of thru-hikers, section hikers and day hikers pass through the Northwest Corner, mainly showing up in Salisbury, Kent and Falls Village. They are notable for their large backpacks, long hair and muscular legs. All have interesting stories to share from their days/weeks/hours on the trail and most are happy to chat. And while most will happily tell you their legal names, their first impulse will be to share a “trail name,” usually bestowed on them by fellow hikers.

Trail name Paddle

On Aug. 11, Paddle came through the trees shrouding part of the Connecticut portion of the trail to Lion’s Head, a famous Salisbury peak. Over the edge of some precarious rocks is a fantastic view of the Berkshires, which Paddle chose to take in before chatting about his experience.

Paddle is not a normal name for anyone — except a hiker. Most Appalachian Trail hikers have trail names, which become integral to their identities as they hike. The idea behind the trail names is to give the hikers a sense of anonymity — but also to allow them to shed their regular identity. In life, a hiker might be a doctor, lawyer or auto mechanic, a teacher, a nurse or an artist; but on the trail, everyone is first and foremost a hiker.

Paddle went on a side canoe trip back when he was in Maine — his trail name becoming clear after that adventure. 

It wasn’t until Paddle started to talk about his name that the friends he’d been hiking with realized — for the first time — that their companion had a paddle tattoo that he just hadn’t chosen to tell them about before.

Trail names Bear! and Bugs

Paddle’s friends had trail names of their own: Bugs and Bear!.

“The exclamation point is necessary if you’re going to write it down,” said Bear!, who has a tidy ginger beard after his weeks on the trail. 

And where did his name come from? “When I was starting out on the trail, I got chased out of the woods by a mama bear and her four cubs.”

“For me, I got my name because I carried a full bug net for 100 miles. I set it up — and got trapped. I learned what it felt like to be a bug caught in a trap, and it wasn’t very fun. After that I ditched the net,” said Bugs.

Though that wasn’t one of her best days on the trail, Bugs said, “Today’s been great. We got to hike Bear Mountain with Bear! himself.”

This group of hikers had just crossed into Connecticut that day. Bear Mountain is the first peak in the state for hikers coming from the north, and it’s also the highest point in the state.

“The last three states we have been in, we’ve been able  to hike to the highest points first. It’s nice to get them out of the way,” Bear! said.

Trail name Taco

“I should really call whoever is in charge of Connecticut and thank them,” joked Taco, the last of the hikers to stop at the trail head. 

Even with a heat advisory out for the day, she was in great spirits, enjoying the great views in Connecticut so far. To keep spirits up (and remain hydrated) they were all chugging large amounts of water. 

Taco’s name came from an experience with “trail magic.” Trail magic is when something extraordinary happens. It can be anything from snacks or drinks left along the trail by local people, or a show of generosity from another hiker, or experiencing a rarity, such as a once-in-a-lifetime view.

In Taco’s case, she came upon some people offering free tacos to thru-hikers. 

Trail name Wizard

Also walking with Bear! and Bugs was Wizard, whose trail name did not originate from a trail magic experience; rather, he said, “I’m just a magical being. I have no tricks; it’s just the way I am.”

Paddle said that earlier in the day they ran into another Wizard, one who did do tricks including some neat ones that involved rubber bands and playing cards. 

The group was also serenaded with musical instruments by some “no-bos,” a term Bugs used for north-bound hikers. 

It’s traditional for most thru-hikers to start in Georgia early in the year and head north, ending in Maine before the weather gets too cold.

This particular group started at the northern terminus of the trail in Maine, at Mount Katahdin. They are headed  south and will end their hike in Georgia. They are walking about 15 to 20 miles a day.

Why hikers love the PO

One consequence of racking up all those miles: broken and worn-out shoes. Taco picked at her hiking boots, which had split. “This is what happens to shoes after 300 miles. I ordered myself a new pair and am having them sent to the post office at Cornwall Bridge.” 

Most thru-hikers will arrange for supplies to be mailed to post offices along their treks. In addition to shoes, food can also be delivered.

The hikers remembered their trip through the 100 Mile Wilderness, a section of the trail in Maine that is unusually difficult to traverse because it is very remote. 

Bugs said she was foolish enough to try and carry the 10 days of food needed, learning quickly it was too difficult. 

On most parts of the trail, Bugs can hike into town to get more food — from a grocery store or a post office where a package of food awaits her. In the 100 Mile Wilderness, there are no towns. So she had to organize food drops, where drivers deliver food to the trail and leave it on specific logging roads, the only points connecting the hike to civilization.

The majority of the group did drops; they applauded Wiz (their nickname for Wizard) because he carried his 10 days of food. 

Bring on the cheese

When food was brought up, the friends delved into the specifics. “We just had a lunch of champions: tuna fish on Fritos and Honeybuns. With all this hiking, I never worry about my weight. I eat whatever I want,” said Bugs.

 Bear! agreed, “I eat so much cheese. It’s great.”

Taco clarified important hiking food terminology. “Raisins are ‘rabbit turds’ and squeezable peanut butter is ‘cat turds’ because of its consistency when it comes out of the pouch.”

A better lunch was a feast of hamburgers in Great Barrington. 

Another example of trail magic: Volunteers at a church were offering meals to thru-hikers. The group also ran into people giving out beer and offering hacky sack lessons.

Group name: Mountain Turtles

The Mountain Turtles is the group’s hiking name. They all started out on the trail as strangers to each other. Bugs and Taco met first, and now are best friends after two months of travel together. They met Paddle at a hostel and Bear! at a bus stop. There’s also Wiz, and one other (faster) friend was already down at LaBonne’s Market enjoying a beer. 

Between seeing moose, swimming in river pools, and surviving the 100 Mile Wilderness together, this group of strangers became friends. 

“It gets weird sometimes, but we are all so close it doesn’t matter,” said Taco. 

Bugs said, “In all, I’d give it a three-star experience. Put that in the paper.”

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