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More joys of foraging

If you are like me (or more precisely, if you are me), you’ve been out in the woods a lot lately, searching for sweet spring edibles. We’ve already discussed ramps. I probably won’t tell you about morels, because there don’t seem to be that many of them around this year, and I don’t want you to take any that might otherwise find their way into my life. But we can talk about fiddlehead ferns.The woods here are full of ferns that are just now pushing their curled heads up and beginning to stretch their long necks so that they look like ... fiddleheads. Not all of these are edible ferns, though. When we write about foraged foods in this column, the emphasis isn’t necessarily on the health benefits of the food. We concentrate more on how to avoid poisoning yourself. With edible ferns, you probably won’t get sick (immediately) no matter which type you eat. But most ferns aren’t that much fun to eat and all of them have some carcinogens in them. Generally we encourage people worried about cancer to eat lots of leafy greens and lots of local produce that haven’t been treated with chemicals. Because they have carcinogens, obviously, if you’re worried about cancer risk, just skip the fiddleheads. Because really, they’re kind of an acquired taste anyway. Even many foragers shrug them off as interesting maybe but not that interesting. I like them. But really I only like them about once a year. Which is fine because that’s about as often as they are available.You can of course buy fiddleheads at many area grocery stores, such as LaBonne’s in Salisbury. But most of the fun with foraged foods is the foraging. So, again, there are enough ferns around here to keep any forager busy for days. But it’s hard to know which are the edible and less-carcinogenic fiddleheads. What you want to look for are the very thick green ones with a light dusting of brown plant matter around the fiddlehead. These will eventually grow into what is known as an ostrich fern, which is actually one of the prettiest and most delicate of all the ferns that grow around here. They can grow very tall, up to 6 feet. Their fronds are long and soft and each one is made up of dozens of smaller fronds that are notched around the edges. They are feathery. But of course if you’re looking for fiddleheads now, you won’t have the fully developed leaves to help you. This week’s photograph shows a fiddlehead found in Lakeville. If you’d like to see what a mature plant looks like, search online for an image of an ostrich fern. And if you’d like to know how to eat them: Shake the fiddleheads in a brown paper bag so they shed some of their brown sheathing. Steam them until they’re tender but not soft or mushy. It’s a thin line between a succulent edible and something the dog won’t eat. Sautée them in butter and garlic and a variety of fresh herbs such as chive blossoms, which are everywhere now. Serve them as a sidedish or on a big bowl of pasta. They have a kind of nutty taste and texture that, once you acquire the taste, is lovely.

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