Watch that grilling

The season for outdoor grilling is set to begin any second now — as soon as the rain stops.

“Cooking out� is an American tradition and generally loads of fun. But it also does pose some cancer risks, so (as with everything when it comes to nutrition) you need to do it in moderation.

In case you missed all these explanations back in 2005, when the government added the chemicals produced in grilled meats to the list of known carcinogens, here’s the deal.

When meats are cooked over high heat for a long time, they produce  chemicals called heterocyclic amines (HCAs), which have been found to cause cancer.

Interestingly, although beef is generally considered the least healthy meat from a cancer point of view, it is skinless chicken that produces the most HCAs when grilled.

According to a study by the Cancer Project (which studies cancer and nutrition), a 3.5-ounce well-done boneless skinless chicken breast cooked on the grill produces 14,300 ng of HCAs. A 3.5-ounce steak, cooked well, produces 810 ng.

Those are the two top producers of HCAs. Next on the  list is pork (470 ng for a 3.5-ounce piece), followed by salmon with the skin on (166 ng).

I was surprised to find that a 3.5-ounce hamburger produces the lowest levels of HCAs, at 130 ng.

Hot dogs didn’t make it to the Cancer Project list of top producers of HCA. But, the site warns, most commercial hot dogs have nitrates and N-nitroso compounds, which are listed as “potent� carcinogens. (Look for a review next week of locally produced, nitrate-free hot dogs.)

If you really, really love grilling, Cancer Project has two suggestions. The first is to grill vegetables but not meats.

The second is to cook beef on the grill, not chicken; and don’t cook it for too long. There was a consistent link in the group’s study between well-done meats (that is, meats that had been on the grill for a longer amount of time) and the production of HSAs.

Eating meats that aren’t too fatty can also help lower your exposure. As fat from your meat drips into the flames below, it produces another carcinogen, called polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbon (PAH), which clings to your meat. Cancer specialists believe that PAHs can cause stomach cancer.

After reading all that, perhaps you won’t be so sorry that the weather has not been conducive to cooking outdoors. But, again, moderation is the key. And keep in mind that it’s not just the backyard grill that produces HSAs; cooking any meat at high heat for a long period of time, indoors or out, can create these carcinogens.

Since pork tenderloins are fairly low in fat, and are fairly low on the list of the top five producers of HSAs, I’ve included a recipe for barbecued pork tenderloin from Ina Garten’s excellent new “Barefoot Contessa, Back to Basics� cookbook.

In addition to being low-fat, pork cooks quickly — in fact, be sure to take it off the grill before it begins to dry out. And don’t worry about trichinosis (or swine flu); pork is as safe as any meat  you buy today.

When you decide to treat yourself and barbecue a piece of beef, try our Country Cook’s London broil marinade, which you can find on Page A17.

Herb-marinated loin of pork

Serves 3

Adapted from “Barefoot Contessa, Back to Basics�

Grated zest of one lemon

Juice of one plump lemon (you’ll need about 1/2 cup juice)

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 cloves garlic, minced

4 sprigs fresh thyme

6 to 8 leaves fresh sage, chopped

1 heaping teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons coarse salt

2 pork tenderloins (about 1.5 pounds)

Freshly ground black pepper

Put the marinade ingredients in a resealable plastic bag.

I like to sliver an extra clove or two of garlic and grab some extra thyme and sage from the garden and lay them between the two tenderloins, then tie them together with kitchen string. Or you can just pop the tenderloins in the plastic bag.

Marinate the tenderloins overnight (or for at least three hours), turning  from time to time so they marinate fully.

When you’re ready to cook, and the charcoals are nice and hot, discard the marinade but keep any of the herbs that cling to the outside of the meat (and, obviously, the garlic and herbs that are tied between the two pieces, if you tied them together).

Grill them for about 25 minutes, turning a few times. If you have a meat thermometer, your pork should be 137 degrees at the thickest part.

Take the tenderloins off the fire and wrap them in aluminum foil for 10 minutes. Then carve them into half-inch diagonal slices. It’s fine if the rarest parts of the tenderloin are still pink. Really.

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