One Last Perfect Summer Salad, Even Though It’s Now Fall

Salade Nicoise is surely one of France’s most treasured and  universally appreciated dishes. Originated in Provence, specifically Nice, it can be found on virtually every menu, in every bistro, across the country. Recipe variations are equal in numbers. Could that be the kind of flexibility that proves the depth of a recipe?

There are devout tradi­tionalists, as well as avant-garde nouvelle cuisine devotees. Famed chefs from Escoffier to Julia Child to Gordon Ramsay and more have all contributed their recipes, conventional or not so much.

The variations are so great that it’s almost difficult to select the ingredients that are at the heart of the dish. Nevertheless, here goes my list of the essentials: tuna, tomato and olives. To that list you can add almost any item that strikes your fancy or is seasonal. Even though summer has wound down, and they may not be at their peak now, the obligatory tomatoes are necessary and perfect for this salad. You can still find good plum or cherry tomatoes, even if the garden tomatoes have faded.

Then, Kalamata olives, or Nicoise if available, and, of course, the tuna. This is the subject of  some controversy and (mostly) friendly argument: Predominant in France and recipes in most cookbooks is the use of canned tuna, the best available and packed in oil. Revolutionary cooks in our house, though, opt for fresh tuna: beautiful Yellowfin or Ahi, grilled perfectly, sliced and placed on top of the salad. If you would like to weigh in with your opinion on this important topic, send letters to the editor to publisher@lakevillejournal.com.

Now, let’s look at the rest of the salad ingredients. Potatoes and green beans are traditional. We cube and roast Yukon Gold potatoes and barely blanch the green beans, leaving them with a refreshing crispness. These two ingredients can be prepared in advance and given a chance to cool before building the salad. Hard boiled eggs are widely accepted additions, as are anchovies. (We omit the anchovies but add capers for that salty bite.) 

Julienne some romaine for the plate center, arrange the potatoes, beans, eggs and tomatoes, sprinkle with sliced olives and capers and top with the tuna. 

Finally, the dressing. There is almost universal agreement here that it should be a simple vinaigrette. Whisk together dijon mustard and olive oil until nicely emulsified and then add your favored vinegar: red wine, sherry, rice, all work well. 

Pour over your salad and enjoy a classic, much loved, French dish.