Holley Place: innovative food, affordable prices

SALISBURY — After what seems like an eternity without one, Pocketknife Square has a new restaurant. Holley Place opened on the auspicious date of Aug. 8, 2008 (all eights, which are considered fortunate in Chinese feng shui — although the restaurant did not open at 8 p.m.).

The owners are Philip Milano, who was the owner for 15 years of Milano’s Restaurant and Spumoni Garden in Pine Plains (and the owner for a year before that of Little Brick House Pizza in Sharon); and Norman Del Tufo, a professional drummer who plays with Frank Carillo in The Bandalleros (“Our new album, ‘Someday,’ is No. 2 on the roots rock chart,� he said during an interview Thursday. “Our last album, ‘Bad Out There,’ hit No. 1.�).

Milano and Del Tufo became friends during the Spumoni Garden days.

“There was an outdoor garden and music,� Del Tufo explained.

Milano closed down the Pine Plains location a few years ago, took a break, got his energy back and decided to join forces with Del Tufo.

“He knows the restaurant business and I’m going to do the entertainment,� said Del Tufo, who lives in Sharon with his wife, Carolina, and their children.

Wednesday, for example, is open mic night, which should not be misinterpreted as karaoke night or an invitation to folks from the bar to come up and sing “Feelings.�

“There are many, many actors, musicians and comedians in the area,� Del Tufo explained. He’s hoping that all will feel welcome to come and jam with each other, play their specialties, do a little comedy on the stage in the restaurant’s cozy, plush back room (now referred to as The Band Room).

There is also live entertainment every weekend.

“We want to do a little of everything, some jazz, blues, rock and roll, acoustic,� Del Tufo said. “Some comedy. This area is lacking in live entertainment. And you can’t just do one kind of thing, you have to have variety.�

On nights when there isn’t a show, the food is enough to draw a crowd. Prices are reasonable and the menu features classic dishes decked out in stylish new wrappers. There’s a tuna melt for lunch ($8.95) but, the menu blurb promises, “Forget the mayo — eat healthy.� This tuna melt is on Italian bread, with extra virgin oilve oil and mozzarella cheese. Or check out the “Better BLT�: “Stacked high and neat with applewood-cured bacon on fresh rye toast with mayo and a garnish� ($7.95).

Dinner entrees include everything from spinach gnocchi ($13.95) to roast duck Grand Marnier ($24.95). There is a grilled bratwurst plate ($13.95), peas ‘n pasta ($12.95), a Peking duck roll appetizer ($6.95) and a meal-in-itself Brown Derby Cobb Salad ($10.95) with turkey, egg, bacon, avocado, tomato and Gorgonzola. If you’re still hungry after a salad like that, there are a few desserts to choose from including cannoli, cheesecake and an espresso ice cream soda.

Meals are prepared by chef Nemesio Perez, formerly of Le Petit Bistro in Rhinebeck and, years ago, Broadway Pizza in Millerton.

The kitchen he works in is spotless. Milano and Del Tufo spent three months on renovations of the kitchen and serving area.

“Say in your article that you walked in our kitchen and said, ‘This kitchen is so clean, I want you to come clean MY kitchen,’� Milano joked, but he was right. This reporter would be delighted to have such a spotless, gleaming workspace.

Business has been increasing slowly at Holley Place. Patrons who remember Milano from his former eatery have come in. Area residents have stopped by just to say hello and be neighborly. That’s more than fine with the new owners, who place a premium on affability and good humor.

“In this business,â€� Milano said, “you strive to do your best,  you can’t always get 100 percent on your report card but you can at least always be nice to your customers.â€�

Holley Place restaurant at Pocketknife Square in Lakeville, behind the firehouse, is open every day but Tuesday from 11:30 a.m. until 1 a.m. on weekdays and 2 a.m. on weekends. For more information, call 860-596-0500.