How I Parted Ways With Julia

love and admire Julia Child. She taught us to care about what we were cooking. Consequently, for years I would follow faithfully her every prompt: I bathed vegetables in icy water after a fast boil; I tied chickens and roasted them, basting every 15 minutes; I cooked omelettes speedily and boeuf Bourguignon at length. I even made croissants and larded a roast. Once each. So there was a time I would have heeded to the letter her instructions on preparing cauliflower, that cruciferous vegetable that is not green. 

In “Mastering the Art of French Cooking,” Volume l, Child urges us to split the cauliflower head into even florets, peel the stems and, most hilariously of all, mound the pieces in a serving dish in such a way as to replicate its original shape. I reviewed all this for a recent ham dinner. Well, I could not bring myself to peel cauliflower  (although I do peel asparagus and, sometimes, broccoli). As for replicating the head in its raw state, I would appreciate someone else’s efforts in this undertaking, but refused  to do it myself.

Here is how I made Julia Child’s chou-fleur à la creme. 

Divide the head into reasonably even florets and do not peel them. This is a soft, rather bland vegetable, and it needs the texture. Boil cauliflower in salted water for five or six minutes.

For the sauce, simmer 2 cups of heavy cream until reduced by half. Add salt and pepper and drops of lemon juice to taste. Off the heat, stir in 2 tablespoons of soft butter. Pour over the cooked cauliflower. Garnish with chopped chives. 

Forget the ham. I could eat this dish all by itself.  

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