Baking bread with the master, in a Zoom talk

Bread Alone founder Dan Leader will talk about his new book, “Living Bread.”
SHARON — Dan Leader is going to do a Zoom demonstration of how to make sourdough starter and a simple sourdough bread. This is a little bit like having Mozart come to your house to show you how to play “Twinkle, Twinkle, Little Star.”
Leader is the baker/owner/founder of Bread Alone, one of the only bakeries to offer artisanal breads at grocery stores throughout the Tri-state region and New York City.
There are also Bread Alone restaurants in nearby New York state in Boiceville, Rhinebeck, Woodstock and Kingston, serving sandwiches and baked goods, all for take-out these days.
The breads have been selling at a super-fast rate, Leader said.
“We can’t bake enough bread,” he said in a phone interview last week. “We’ve been at full capacity for two months. People are buying all their bread in stores now that they’re not going to restaurants.”
And of course many people are either teaching themselves to bake bread while in quarantine or are dusting off forgotten skills from years ago. As a result, it’s very difficult to find yeast and flour (especially coveted bags of King Arthur products).
Leader’s general message in his Zoom talk will be to relax a little; it’s going to work out. Which is comforting to hear from the man whose new book, “Living Bread,” seems intimidatingly scientific at first glance.
May 29 Zoom talk
“Living Bread” is the reason why Leader is offering his services for what he’s calling “Sourdough 101” online. The talk and demonstration (on Friday, May 29, at 7 p.m.) is a fundraiser for the Hotchkiss Library of Sharon, a way to make up for funds that will not be collected this year at the annual book signing, which will not take place because of COVID-19 concerns.
The library has lined up several authors to do Zoom talks. There is a fee to participate. Books can be ordered (and signed) through the library website. To sign up, go to the library website at www.hotchkisslibrary.org and click on “events” and then “Virtual Book Signing 2.0 — Book Talk With Daniel Leader.”
A limited number of tickets is available for the talk ($25) and for the talk and a signed book ($75).
The baker’s percent
Leader describes himself as a “back-door baker,” and he begins the book by talking about how he learned to bake bread by wandering around France and knocking on the back doors of bakeries. He’d get pulled in off the street and put to work right away.
Despite what he feels is his non-academic background, “Living Bread” presents recipes in an intimidating format — which, once Leader explains it, is actually quite simple.
Bakers have their own shorthand language for adapting recipes; they use a “baker’s percent” in which they throw out a number for the amount of flour used, the amount of salt and water, the time it needs to rise, all the basics of making bread. This is the language that Leader uses in his book.
He also offers metric measurements for the recipes; again, this seems intimidating until you try using a scale, at which point you realize it’s much simpler than cups and tablespoons.
Denser bread, fewer holes
The book is a sort of travel guide to bakeries in Europe that Leader has known and loved. He interviews bakers about their best breads and how they do their work, often using recipes and sourdough starters that have been handed down through the generations.
Leader is drawn more to denser breads with a tighter cell structure, as opposed to the airy artisan bread with lots of holes that he says he sees so much of on social media. These lighter breads are generally made with the newer technique of stretching and folding (or “lamination”) than with kneading (by hand or with a mixer).
“When you knead you don’t get those nooks and crannies,” Leader said. “Esthetically that kind of bread is very appealing, but if you showed it to bakers in, for example, northern Italy or parts of Germany, they’d see those holes as a flaw.
“People like to put butter on their bread, or make sandwiches. It gets messy when you have a lot of holes.”
Armchair travel
The photos in “Living Bread” make a compelling case for the aesthetic appeal of a denser bread. They were taken by Joerg Lehmann, a food photographer who traveled around Europe capturing the breads (and bakers) that Leader writes about in the book with his co-author, Lauren Chattman.
For those who are feeling restless in quarantine, this book not only offers a way to pass the hours (by learning to bake with bakers’ percents); a master class in classic bread technique taught by someone who didn’t learn it in an academic setting; and a beautiful travelogue of western Europe.
For neophyte bakers who feel frustrated at not being able to find their favorite flour brand or commercial yeast, Leader says not to worry about what flour you use for your sourdough starter. Save the best flour for making bread. His book offers information about large mills that can ship artisan flour to you. To learn about an artisan flour mill here in the Tri-state region, see the article in this week’s Compass arts and entertainment section about Wild Hive Farm Community Grain Project in Clinton Corners, N.Y.
Join The Lakeville Journal for a community celebration, featuring local nonprofits and businesses, festive family fun, great food, and engaging activities.
What to Expect:
See you at the Lakeville Journal Street Fair!
If you have any questions, please email streetfair@lakevillejournal.com
Cobbler n’ Cream
5 to 7 p.m.
Freund’s Farm Market & Bakery | 324 Norfolk Rd.
Canaan Carnival
6 to 10 p.m.
Bunny McGuire Park
Canaan Carnival
6 to 10 p.m.
Bunny McGuire Park
Cocktail Party
5 to 7 p.m.
Douglas Library | 108 Main St.
Canaan Carnival
6 to 10 p.m.
Bunny McGuire Park
Boot Drive
8 a.m. to 2 p.m.
North Canaan Fire Co. | 4 E. Main St.
3rd Annual Fly-In
8 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Triumph Airfield | 547 W. Main St.
Canaan Railroad Station Museum
10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Canaan Union Station
New England Accordion Connection
9 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Canaan Union Station
Canaan Carnival
3 to 10 p.m.
Bunny McGuire Park
Berkshire Resilience Brass Band
5 to 8 p.m.
Canaan Union Station
Barbecued Chicken Dinner
5 to 7 p.m.
St. Martin of Tours | 4 Main St.
Canaan Fireman’s parade
6 p.m.
Rosa setigera is a native climbing rose whose simple flowers allow bees to easily collect pollen.
After moving to West Cornwall in 2012, we were given a thoughtful housewarming gift: the 1997 edition of “Dirr’s Hardy Trees and Shrubs.” We were told the encyclopedic volume was the definitive gardener’s reference guide — a fact I already knew, having purchased one several months earlier at the recommendation of a gardener I admire.
At the time, we were in the thick of winter invasive removal, and I enjoyed reading and dreaming about the trees and shrubs I could plant to fill in the bare spots where the bittersweet, barberry, multiflora rose and other invasive plants had been.Years later, I purchased the 2011 edition, updated and inclusive of plants for warm climates.
On the cover of the new edition, a quote from Adrian Higgins of The Washington Post boasts, “Michael Dirr is the oracle of ornamental horticulture. I trust his judgements implicitly.”I heartily disagree with Mr. Higgins:I blame this book — and my poor use of it — for some of my worst tree and shrub choices.
I realize some readers might find this declaration inflammatory. The book still occupies a place of high regard among experienced and novice gardeners alike, so please allow me to explain.
In addition to giving the reader his opinion on the aesthetic worthiness of the woody plants included in the book, Mr. Dirr makes good on the book’s title with a review of each species’ hardiness. What makes a tree hardy?It thrives in its intended site, resisting disease with leaves and bark not readily eaten by insects and other critters.
Non-native plants make up the majority of the recommended hardy plants in the book.And here is why:Native trees and shrubs are, by evolution’s design, food source and host to our native fauna — critters large and small. There is no substitute equal to the fauna’s co-evolved flora.A native caterpillar cannot eat a kousa dogwood leaf, as it has not evolved to digest it.Non-native plants seemingly have the advantage if the lens we look through values pristine, uneaten leaves.
In the days when there were sufficient thriving ecosystems to maintain local habitats, a non-native specimen tree here and there was just fine.But where we live in Northwest Connecticut, our woods, meadows, marshes and other natural areas have, for a couple of decades, been severely compromised by invasives that have almost entirely removed the food sources for native insects. It is up to us — now — to plant native plants to save the food chain.Without insects, not only will native animals die, but human food sources will also be at risk.
The security of our food pipeline seems a worthy exchange for some caterpillar-eaten leaves — and to be clear, we’re not talking about non-native infestations such as spongy moth, but rather native caterpillars, which are the singular food source for nesting birds.
My issue is that, in being a trusted source for plant selection, Dirr’s book should give equal — if not prioritized — space to information on ecological impact.For example, it would be good to know when selecting a tree, that a native oak provides food and other ecosystem services to more than 400 native animal species, while a native tulip poplar supports fewer than 30 — though that includes the Eastern tiger swallowtail. Including information on the birds and insects attracted to a given plant would enable reader to weigh these factors in choosing what to grow.But this information is not mentioned at all.
Dirr makes no mention of the role some of these plants have played in the degradation of our natural areas — an omission that is highly relevant, as many of the plants featured in his book are, in fact, invasive culprits. Plants like barberry, porcelain berry and tree of heaven are showcased for consideration alongside native plants without recognition of the devastating infestations they can manifest. Tree of Heaven is now responsible for hosting the spotted lanternfly, which is devastating crops.
Similarly Euonymous alatus (winged euonymous) and Actinidia arguta (hardy kiwi) — two highly invasive plants touted in the book — have been banned or are close to being banned for sale from nurseries in the state of Massachusetts. To his credit, Dirr does point out the invasive nature of Ligustrum sinense (Chinese privet), calling it “a terrible and devastating escapee that terrorizes floodplains, fencerows and even open fields, reducing native vegetation to rubble.” Yet Japanese honeysuckle gets an understated warning, with Dirr describing this massively invasive shrub as “bullying their way into understory and open areas.”
The latest edition of Dirr’s book devotes seven pages of copy and photos to various Berberis species, about which Dirr waxes poetic. He notes the addition of “30 new cultivars” in the latest revision and complains that “this species is under assault for its aggressive invasive nature.” He refers to Berberis thunbergii — Japanese barberry, the most invasive of them all — as “the species of major importance in garden commerce.” This plant has already been outlawed for sale in New York, Pennsylvania, New Hamphsire and Maine.A few weeks ago, a bill was passed in Connecticut recognizing the harm of a broad group of invasive plants. Under this new legislation, barberry will be phased out from sale or transport by October 2028.
In understating the invasive nature of many non-natives and de-prioritizing the importance of native species, Dirr’s widely used reference may be partly responsible for many a devastated woodland, forest, meadow and marsh in New England — if not across the U.S.Certainly, the evolution of species, and scientific knowledge about the environment, is changing faster than new editions of books can be printed. I can only hope that if a new edition of Mr. Dirr’s reference book is in the works that it will account for this criteria we now know to be vital in plant selection.
Which brings me back to that quote on the cover from The Washington Post and the larger issue it suggests:Should “ornamental horticulture” get a pass when it comes to ecological survival?I think we can agree — it should not.The consequences are simply too destructive.
Dee Salomon ‘ungardens’ in Litchfield County.
Foxtrot Farm & Flowers’ historic barn space during UAW’s 2024 exhibition entitled “Unruly Edges.”
Art lovers, mark your calendars. The sixth edition of Upstate Art Weekend (UAW) returns July 17 to 21, with an exciting lineup of exhibitions and events celebrating the cultural vibrancy of the region. Spanning eight counties and over 130 venues, UAW invites residents and visitors alike to explore the Hudson Valley’s thriving creative communities.
Here’s a preview of four must-see exhibitions in the area:
1. Wassaic Project (37 Furnace Bank Road, Wassaic)
“So It Goes” is a powerful group exhibition curated by Eve Biddle, Bowie Zunino, Jeff Barnett-Winsby, and Will Hutnick. The title, drawn from Kurt Vonnegut’s “Slaughterhouse-Five,” signals a reckoning with how we process the horrors of the world. Through play, reflection, and immersive scale, 43 artists respond with urgency and imagination. Installations can be seen throughout the town of Wassaic at Maxon Mills, Gridley Chapel, and Luther Barn, each space transformed by this deeply thoughtful show.
2. Foxtrot Farm & Flowers (6862 Route 82, Stanfordville)
“Queer Bestiary,” a group show curated by Charlotte Woolf, is inspired by Patricia Ononiwu Kaishian’s book “Forest Euphoria.” The exhibition investigates queer ecology and human relationship to land through the work of 10 artists using painting, sculpture, textiles, and photography. The exhibit is accompanied by a variety of interactive experiences including tattoo pop-ups, karaoke, book readings, and pick-your-own flowers.
3. ChaShaMa North/ChaNorth (2600 Route 199, Pine Plains)
ChaShaMa North (ChaNorth) will have open studios all weekend and has partnered with Paradice Palase, a platform for emerging artists, to mount a site-specific sculpture exhibition featuring 20 artists entitled “Alone, You Are Heard.” On Saturday evening, July 19, stop by for Weird Music Night for an audio-visual synthesis of experimental music, performance art, and unexpected happenings. Don’t miss this opportunity to experience an eclectic lineup of acts that redefine the boundaries of performance.
4. Millbrook Arts Project(3 Friendly Lane, Millbrook)
The Millbrook Arts Project is hosting a curated exhibit entitled “Generated Utility” at the newly renovated gallery at the village library. The exhibit will feature the work of artists Natalie Beall and Kathy Greenwood. Additionally, visitors will have access to 12 open artists studios across town. The weekend culminates in a free outdoor concert on Saturday evening at 6 p.m. at the Millbrook Bandshell. Enjoy the Indie-Folk sounds of Strawberry Runners and She Keeps Bees.
For more information and a complete list of participating artists and locations, visit: upstateartweekend.org