Take this chance to cook on the wild side

Forage season has begun. I’m fairly new to the edible art form of “found food,” so I can’t say if the season is early this year, but since everything else is ahead of time I will be willing to bet that the first wild foods are here early too.The first forage-able food of the season in Litchfield County (as far as I know) is the ramp, a lovely little green that looks like a lily of the valley but tastes like the love child of a scallion and a garlic plant. Last spring, my friend Lawrence Davis-Hollander kindly shared the hidden forest glade where he collects ramps — but he did so mainly with the intention of discouraging me from over-collecting them. The theme of our forage outing last year was very clear: Just because foods are wild doesn’t mean they are infinitely renewable. Ramps, like any delicacy you might plant in a garden box, have to be managed and cared for. So if you find a patch of ramps, you absolutely must not pull the plants up by their roots and bulb. If you do, then you will slowly kill off the patch. Of course, the ramps somehow found a way to plant themselves and proliferate in the first place without our help. But ramps are not like moss. You can’t just assume that they will regrow in abundance as soon as you turn your back.I’m not certain why people want the ramp bulbs when the leaves are the most delicious part of the plant; but anytime you see a photo of ramps you see the whole plant, with bulb, roots and dirt attached. The bulbs are very pretty, and edible so that’s how cooks who care about aesthetics prepare them.This column is about nothing so much as it is about moderation. So, if you feel you must have some pretty bulbs to dress up your ramps, go ahead and pull a few. But don’t just pull them all up that way. Just clip off their leaves.Davis-Hollander goes so far as to recommend that you cut just one of the two ramp leaves on each plant. That way, the ramp can continue to do photosynthesis and the other things plants do to stay alive. It’s kind of like cutting one leg off a lobster and then throwing it back into the water so it can repair itself.I used to think that hardy wild plants could be transplanted. After several unsuccessful tries at this with wild black raspberries, I realized that just because a plant is indomitable in the wild, that doesn’t mean it will do well in a more domestic, nurturing setting. It is possible, according to www.seedman.com, to replant ramps with seeds, but the seeds are hard to collect. It’s also possible to transplant them, if you are careful when you pull the ramp and its bulb and roots. Late summer and early fall are the best times for transplanting, according to the website www.seedman.com. But it can take 18 months before you are able to collect some edible leaves, and it could be years before you have enough plants to make a meal out of.So enough already with the health of the plant. Let’s talk now about human health as it relates to ramps. First, how do you know you’ve found ramps and not some other kind of groundcover, or a similar-looking plant such as the lily of the valley? The easy answer is that you should ask someone like Davis-Hollander to teach you what to look for. If you haven’t got a forage guru, then the easiest clue is the smell. If you break off one of the two long glossy leaves it should emit a strong smell like wild onions or leeks (ramps are, technically, wild leeks) or garlic scapes. The spot where I find ramps is in a wooded area that is close to water and has lots of skunk cabbage. But apparently the cabbage are not an automatic indicator that ramps will be nearby; in fact, I’m under the impression that ramps usually are not found near them and my secret spot is somewhat of an anomaly. According to the seedman, ramps can be found in “rich, moist, deciduous forests” and that they like to grow under “a forest canopy of beech, birch, sugar maple and/or poplar.” Plants that might be growing nearby include trillium and nettle. Once you have the ramps you have to figure out how to eat them. First, of course, you’ll need to rinse the dirt and bugs off them, and trim the roots off any bulbs you collected. You can add your ramps to any stir fry; they add a nice subtle bite to a skillet full of sauteed spinach. And they provide the same nutrients as the other dark leafy greens. They have a fair amount of iron and they help protect your eyes from macular degeneration, for example. The Wall Street Journal had a recipe a couple weeks ago for pickling ramps. I’ve tried it twice, it’s easy and delicious, if you like vinegar. The simple version of the recipe is that you bring to a boil 1 1/2 cups of Japanese rice vinegar (found at most grocery stores) and the same amount of water plus 1 teaspoon of salt. Pour the hot mixture over your ramps and let it all sit for about 10 minutes. Voila, ramp pickles. The restaurant chef who provided the recipe to the newspaper serves the pickled ramps as part of a French-style tartine sandwich. He slaps a lot of rich, nice butter on a sandwich-sized slice of fresh baguette, adds a few pickled ramps and tops it all with thick-cut ham. The better the ham, the better the sandwich.

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