At Amenia’s newest restaurant, 'food is the absolute standout'

Panacea’s Rockaway oysters on the half-shell are procured daily and served fresh. Accompanying the oysters is a classic bowl of vinegar and a house-made raspberry mignonette.

Madeline Park

At Amenia’s newest restaurant, 'food is the absolute standout'

Arriving at Panacea feels like arriving at a friend’s house. A charming blue exterior, with a large patio and string lights, surrounds a welcoming and warm interior. Since the restaurant opened a little over two weeks ago, I have made not one, but three trips, and every time has been just as enjoyable as the first.

Upon entering, one is greeted by a host’s stand in a small front dining room, as well as a handful of tables and a little bar tucked into the corner. Moving back through a small hallway, hosting two gender non-specific bathrooms, there is another dining room, larger but still just as cozy. The entire place is made up of dark, caramel colored wood, with beams stretched across a white ceiling, a fireplace tucked in the back dining room and eclectic artwork smattered around. From the back dining room diners enjoy a glimpse into the kitchen, clean and busy, and an enclave where one can see the finishing touches being put on dishes before being whisked away. All of these parts, clearly lovingly curated by Jake Somers and his fiancee/co-chef Khendum Namgyal (who is responsible for the absolutely unmatched pasta), come together into a very pleasant whole.

I was pleased to see a wonderful cocktail list, the absolute champion of which is the Chef’s Slightly Dirty Martini (which I ordered extra dirty, my personal preference). Expertly made, served in a chilled glass, it was well worth the $18 price tag. I had no fewer than two on every visit, and will be going back for a solo martini/oyster date. The wine selection, though respectable, remained untouched on my end due to an unfortunate sulfite allergy. Panacea also has a mocktail list, which I believe should be the norm, including a very interesting take on a Shirley Temple. Their beer list is regrettably small, considering the availability of craft beers in this area, but I think that can be forgiven.

That being said, the food is the absolute standout. Panacea prides itself on locally sourced produce — right now Paley’s, Maitra, Hepworth and 5 Acre farms, but soon to include others — and they use it in masterful ways. Their heirloom tomato appetizer with housemade whipped ricotta is outstanding — the ricotta alone had us discreetly licking the plate, not even to mention the glory that is the tomatoes. Other appetizers include Rockaway raw oysters with a breathtaking raspberry mignonette — the waitress had barely set them down before they had been finished off — and the Fire Fritto! a shrimp and calamari dish with local veggies that was so delicious our entire party of six was ordering their own. One of whom, bizarrely, is on an entirely protein diet, and was quite pleased to find that the appetizer was more than generous with the shrimp and calamari.

The appetizers give way into a limited but far reaching entree list, the star of which is the house made pasta. The Malfadine was perfect. Long, curlicue noodles perfectly al dente, a generous portion of shrimp (halved, making them fold perfectly into every bite) and a subtle crunch of fresh basil all enveloped in an incredible tomato sauce. Also on the pasta list is a rigatoni- perfect noodles, melt in your mouth pork shoulder, and sauce I would happily eat all on its own. I did find myself wishing for maybe one piece of crusty bread, but only because it seemed too tragic to leave any of the sauce on both dishes behind. On my last visit, I managed to tear myself away from the pasta and ordered the Catch of the Day, which was a Bronzino. Crispy, delicate skin, flavorful and juicy meat, beautifully served with tender beans and a sauce which rendered me speechless.

Dessert is necessary in every form, and Panacea does not flounder at the finish line. Every dessert went above and beyond, but the chocolate mousse is a must have, even for those lacking a sweet tooth. It is the definition of decadence, and I found it best paired with their espresso martini, which is also a thing of beauty. Made with fresh espresso, it has a wonderful bite with an edge of liquor and a hint of sweetness to ease the palate.

All in all, Panacea is a star. The entire experience is perfectly curated, the staff are knowledgeable and warm, and the owners are welcoming and friendly. They’ve recognized us on every return visit, and seem to make a point to personally greet every table. Their skill in crafting these dishes is both a breath of fresh air for Amenia and something we should all be thankful to experience. I cannot wait until my next visit, and I especially cannot wait to see what they do in the coming seasons.

Latest News

Donald Francis ‘Frank’ McNally

MILLERTON — Donald Francis “Frank” McNally Jr., passed away peacefully at Vassar Brothers Medical Center on Wednesday Jan. 8, 2025, after a short illness. Frank was a resident of Millerton since 1996. He was born on Jan. 27, 1955, in Cold Spring, New York, at Butterfield Hospital and was raised in Garrison, New York, where he enjoyed exploring and camping in the wilderness of the Hudson Valley, participating in the Boy Scouts as a bugler, and competing as captain of his high school wrestling team.

He was a graduate of James I. O’Neill High School in Highland Falls class of ‘74 and SUNY Cobleskill class of ‘76 where he majored in animal husbandry, specializing in equine science. He then proudly volunteered for the United States Peace Corps where he accepted an assignment to his host country of the Philippines, where he met his wife. Frank would then pursue his lifelong passion for horses and horseback riding on several horse farms in Dutchess County. Later he would work for New York state where he would then retire, spending his time caring for animals, reading, fishing and taking photographs. Frank enjoyed a good laugh with family and friends, while also occasionally winning a game of RISK. Frank was an avid reader, often reading several books a week while in the constant company of his cat.

Keep ReadingShow less
Florence Eugenia Cooper

NORFOLK — Florence Eugenia Cooper died on Sunday, Dec. 15, 2024, at the age of 92 at Geer Lodge in Canaan, Connecticut where she had been a resident for 2 ½ years. She also spent a couple of days a week at the home of her daughter, the artist Hilary Cooper and her husband Chris Crowley, in Lakeville.

Florence (neé Muhas) was born and grew up in Brooklyn, New York, the daughter of Greek immigrants. She went to local public schools and then to college at Barnard where she was mentored by Professor of Religion Ursula Niebuhr, wife of the philosopher Reinhold Niebuhr, who urged her to go to her alma mater St Hugh’s College, Oxford University where she earned a D. Phil degree. Later, she received an M.A. in foreign policy with a specialty in China, at the London School of Economics.

Keep ReadingShow less
Frederick Ralph Scoville II

WEST CORNWALL — Frederick Ralph Scoville II, 72, of 243 Town St., died Jan. 7, 2025, at the Waterbury Hospital surrounded by his loving family. Fred was the husband of 45 years to Lynn (Pollard) Scoville. Fred was born in Torrington, son of the late Ralph and Thalia (Hicock) Scoville.

Fred spent his whole life in West Cornwall. He attended Cornwall Consolidated and Housatonic Valley Regional High School. The only time he left was to attend the University of Connecticut for animal science. After school he came home to work with his father on the family farm taking over full-time in 1996 milking dairy cattle and selling hay. His life passion was the farm. He could always be found tinkering on equipment or surveying the neighborhood on his golf cart. The only thing that rivaled the farm was his love of his family. His wife, sons, daughter-in-law, and grandchildren meant the world to Fred.

Keep ReadingShow less
Violet Leila Woods

MILLERTON — Violet Leila Woods, 95, passed away peacefully on Jan. 1, 2025, in Mesa, Arizona. She was born on Jan. 23, 1929, in Brooklyn, New York. Following birth, Violet resided in Millerton, New York, where she lived until moving to Jacksonville, Florida following her retirement. She was preceded in death by her husband, Norman Woods; her parents, Henry George Rice and Eurie Marion Rice; her ten siblings; Audrey, Glendon, Joseph, George, Robert, Gordon, Beulah, Marion, Edith, and Betty. Violet, more commonly known as “Vi” lived a long, fulfilling, and wonderful life spent with family and friends.

Day to day, Violet spent time playing sudoku puzzles and was an avid reader, finding joy in exchanging books with friends. She also found great joy playing bingo, pinnacle, poker, and had a lifelong passion for knitting and crocheting, which she learned from her mother. Many friends or relatives have received sweaters, blankets, and afghans hand-made by Vi. Her handmade gifts truly touched the lives of many.

Keep ReadingShow less