
A tomato and bacon jam is easy to make and makes a nicely contrasting accompaniment to fritters.
Photo by Cynthia Hochswender
Two days ago I put my apron on again, after a month of ignoring it. It’s not that I hadn’t cooked; it’s more that I’d done it in a somnolent state, not really paying close enough attention to realize I needed protective gear.
The garden is a harsh mistress and doesn’t really care what else is happening in your life. The zucchini need to be picked when they’re ready, before they grow large enough to be baseball bats. The tomatoes will explode if you ignore them. The corn will only show up on tables at the farm markets for a few short precious weeks.
And so it’s time to pay attention, and to collect all those ingredients and return to the kitchen and to life.
This recipe for fritters is unremarkable, you can find similar sets of instructions in any cookbook and of course online.
What’s different is the quantity. Like many people in the world (old and young), I am now cooking for just a single person: myself. Most recipes serve at least four, so this is an exercise in finding foods that are happy if you give them all your attention and cook just a small portion.
Usually, to be honest, I don’t measure much, especially with a homespun recipe like this. But I knew I would be sharing this recipe — if not the finished dish — with you readers, so … I measured. You’re welcome. But feel free to monkey around with the quantities. Want more green? Use more zucchini and less potato. Hate the potato thing? Leave the potatoes out. Cooking for 10? Just multiply the quantities. It will all be OK.
For a person dining alone, this is a filling meal and the perfect companion to a tomato salad. Or you can sautée some diced onions and add some cherry tomatoes, then cook it all down over low heat into a jam. Add garlic and diced peppers if you like more heat.
To create the julienne sticks of zucchini and potato, I used a mandoline, which seems like a fussy luxury until you have to make zucchini julienne sticks or until you want to make super thin cucumber or potato slices.
I bought mine on Amazon.com; it is called the PL8 Gourmet Slicer and you can buy one for $43. I store it in its box, which is about 15 inches long by 5 inches wide and 4 inches deep (small and easy to tuck into a corner of the pantry).
Be sure to use the safety accessory; the blades are extremely sharp.
Zucchini Fritters
Enough for one serving
One ear of corn, 1 cup of julienned Yukon Gold potato (lightly packed), 1 cup of julienned zucchini, 2 eggs, 1/8 cup sour cream, 1/2 cup all purpose flour, 1/2 cup chopped basil, 1/4 cup chopped scallions, 8 cracks of fresh black pepper, 2 teaspoons of coarse kosher salt, 1 teaspoon of curry powder
This recipe assumes that you have cooked corn left over from yesterday’s dinner or lunch. Scrape the kernels off the ear.
Julienne the potato (you’ll want about half of a large Yukon Gold) and the zucchini (about a third of a big old baseball bat). Blanche the potatoes in boiling water for about 5 minutes (if this seems too hard, just leave the potatoes out).
In a medium bowl, beat together the two eggs and the sour cream. Add the flour and beat it in until you have a fairly smooth batter.
Drop the julienned veggies into the batter and add in the basil and scallion (about one long scallion stalk — I usually just cut them into small bite-sized pieces with a clean pair of kitchen scissors; so much easier than chopping with a knife). Add the pepper, salt and curry powder and stir it all up.
Heat up a griddle or cast iron pan — although really a nonstick pan will work fine, too, since you will be cooking this over low to medium-low heat. If these were regular breakfast pancakes, you’d cook them faster and over higher heat. But you want the zucchini to cook, so … use low to medium-low heat.
I like to use butter with my fritters, but you can use whatever you like, including nothing if you’re working with a nonstick pan.
When the griddle is hot, scoop a large spoonful of vegetable-filled batter onto the hot surface and pat it down so it’s somewhat flat. You’ll want to cook each side for about 3 to 5 minutes.
You can eat them as I do, standing over the sink with my fingers. Or you can serve them on plates with tomato jam, or a white dairy such as sour cream, creme fraiche or Greek yogurt. Sprinkle more herbs on top. Do whatever you want. This one’s for you.
Kevin Kelly
“I was exposed to that cutthroat, ‘Yes, chef’ culture. It’s not for me. I don’t want anyone apologizing for who they are or what they love.”— Kevin Kelly
Kevin Kelly doesn’t call himself a chef; he prefers “cook.” His business, After Hours, based in Great Barrington, operates as what Kelly calls “a restaurant without a home,” a pop-up dining concept that prioritizes collaboration over competition, flexibility over permanence, and accessibility over exclusivity.
Kelly grew up in Great Barrington and has roots in the Southern Berkshires that go back ten generations. He began working in restaurants at age 14. “I started at Allium and was hooked right off the bat,” he said. He worked across the region from Cantina 229 in New Marlborough to The Old Inn on the Green at Jacob’s Pillow before heading to Babson College in Boston to study business. After a few years in Boston kitchens, he returned home to open a restaurant. But the math didn’t work. “The traditional model just didn’t feel financially sustainable,” he said. “So, I took a step back and asked, ‘If that doesn’t work, then what does?’”
The answer became After Hours. Rather than investing in a single location, Kelly partners with various venues and brings the restaurant experience to them. He uses the commercial kitchen at The Thornewood, a former inn turned workforce housing in Great Barrington. “They didn’t really have much use for the commercial kitchen, and I happened to connect with them when they acquired the property. We were actually the first tenant in the building,” said Kelly. Events are usually family-style and rooted in seasonal, local ingredients, sourced from local farms whenever possible including Dancing Greens, Indian Line, Off The Shelf and North Plain.
Since launching in December 2023, After Hours has hosted more than 150 events and partnered with nearly 100 local businesses including Wards Nursery in Great Barrington, Paige’s Place in Otis, Massachusetts, The Berkshire Botanical Garden, and coming up is a summer residency at The White Hart in Salisbury. From multi-course dinners to casual market pop-ups, its model adapts to the space, the moment, and the ingredients. “We design menus based on the venue,” said Kelly. “Whatever the kitchen allows, we make it work.”
Looking for partnerships that are mutually beneficial adds to the community-oriented business model. “Something we always look to curate with events and event partners is finding ways to mutually collaborate on marketing. So, Wards is a great example where they’re really looking to tap into a younger demographic and that’s something we’re able to really bring to the table.”
Now, Kelly is extending the model with a new initiative called The After Hours Supper Club. A subscription-based model, members will receive monthly meals for two or four with seasonally inspired mains, small plates, desserts, and extras. A portion of the proceeds supports Berkshire Bounty, a nonprofit fighting local food insecurity.
The Supper Club is not Kelly’s first collaboration with Berkshire Bounty. Last Thanksgiving, he launched a “buy one, give one” meal kit where one purchased meal equaled one donated to a local family. “Berkshire Bounty is so grateful for the continued support from Kevin and After Hours. Through Kevin’s creativity and care, together we are making an impact on food security in this community and providing nourishing food for the most vulnerable among us,” said Morgan Ovitsky, Executive Director of Berkshire Bounty.The subscription model allows After Hours to extend its reach into homes across the region. “We’ve had strong early interest,” said Kelly. “We’re fulfilling our first orders in June.”
Staffing such a fluid operation is a challenge. To address this, Kelly also created After Hours Gigs, a flexible labor system where people can sign up for one-off shifts. “Most people around here have three or four jobs,” he said. “This lets them pick up a gig with low commitment.” About 15 to 20 people work regularly through the system, but Kelly is often still scrambling to fill roles on busy weekends. With five events in just four days on the calendar, Kelly keeps moving. “It’s a lot,” he said. “But you just do it. One event at a time.”
There is a distinctly anti-macho ethos to his kitchens. “I was exposed to that cutthroat, ‘Yes, chef’ culture. It’s not for me. I don’t want anyone apologizing for who they are or what they love.” When someone asks what to wear to a gig, his response is simple. “Be comfortable. Be presentable. Be yourself.”
What Kelly has built with After Hours is less a brand than a belief that food should be personal, shared, grounded in place and people. So, what’s the most delicious thing he’s made recently? “A white pizza with ramp pesto,” he told me, eyes lighting up. “We’ve started doing Sicilian slices at the farmer’s market. Breakfast pizzas are next.”
For more information, visit: www.afterhoursgb.com
Dee Salomon on what makes a garden a garden.
On June 20 and 21, the Cornwall Library will celebrate its 10th anniversary of Books & Blooms, the two-day celebration of gardens, art, and the rural beauty of Cornwall. This beloved annual benefit features a talk, reception, art exhibit, and self-guided tours of four extraordinary local gardens.
The first Library sponsored garden tour was in June 2010 and featured a talk by Page Dickey, an avid gardener and author. This year’s Books & Blooms will coincide with Ellen Moon’s exhibit “Thinking About Gardens,” a collection of watercolors capturing the quiet spirit of Cornwall’s private gardens. Moon, a weekly storyteller to the first grade at Cornwall Consolidated School and art curator for The Cornwall Library, paints en plein air. Her work investigates what constitutes a garden. In the description of the show, she writes: “there are many sorts...formal, botanical, cottage, vegetable, herb...even a path through the woods is a kind of garden. My current working definition of a garden is a human intervention in the landscape to enhance human appreciation of the landscape.” Also on display are two of her hand-embroidered jackets. One depicts spring’s flowering trees and pollinators. The other, a kimono, was inspired by Yeats’s “The Song of the Wandering Aengus.”
On Friday, June 20 at 5:30 p.m. writer and garden philosopher Dee Salomon will give a talk titled, “What Makes a Garden a Garden?” at Cornwall Town Hall. Beloved for her “Ungardener” column here in our newspapers, Salomon will reflect on the meaning of gardens and their place in the human imagination. The presentation is followed by a festive cocktail reception at the library, with live music by the Crownback Funk Trio, an improvisational blend of funk, blues, and jazz.
Then on Saturday, participants can enjoy self-guided tours of four distinctive Cornwall gardens, each with docents on hand to answer questions. From a terraced Italianate hillside overlooking the Housatonic River to a wild deer-frequented garden brimming with perennials and daffodils, these gardens tell stories of transformation, imagination, and place.
Books & Blooms is a reflection of the Cornwall Library’s vital role in town. “The library really is the central meeting place,” said event organizer Kirk Van Tassel. “People come here for talks, kids’ programs, art exhibits. It’s a cornerstone of community life.”
To purchase tickets, visit cornwalllibrary.org