Food, Sex and a Happy Ending What’s Wrong With That?

The first two “Iron Man” films made so much money for director John Favreau that he could do whatever he wanted. And what he wanted was to get back to his Indie roots, to act and direct as he did in “Swingers” and “Made.” So now we have the sweet crowd-pleasing “Chef,” a calming, joyful breather between summer’s action-packed, comic book blockbusters and sci-fi fantasies. Favreau plays Carl Casper, a culinary egotist with a chef’s knife tattoo running down one forearm and “El Jefe” tattooed across his knuckles. His obsession with work and the gorgeous, seductive sensuality of food has caused his divorce from Inez (the voluptuous Sophia Vergara) and the fraying of his relationship with his 11-year-old son, Percy (Emjay Anthony, a terrific find). Carl works in a fancy L.A. restaurant, where he is hungry to cook the latest food trends — carne asada, kimchi, pork belly — after several years of multi-starred success with fillet steak and chocolate lava cake. As the film opens, we see Carl furiously chopping fennel, then expertly cutting a small pig into pieces. (Roy Choi, owner of L.A.’s five famous Kogi food trucks, was Favreau’s technical advisor on the film.) But his hopes are soon dashed. When a food critic (a superb Oliver Platt) announces he is coming for dinner, Carl makes plans to offer off-the-menu special dishes. Nothing doing, says the restaurant’s owner (Dustin Hoffman, without his usual tics or mannerisms). Carl does as he is told, the critic pans his cooking, and Carl is depressed. The restaurant’s maitre d’, Scarlett Johansson — yes, that’s correct — commiserates with Carl in bed and tells him he must follow his bliss. He stands up to the owner and, surprise, he is fired. But Carl also stands up to the critic, with the help of his son, on Twitter. Using salty language inappropriate for most any newspaper, Carl gets 10,000 followers overnight, after he blunders into a Twitter feud. He is suddenly unemployable, but too smart to appear on a TV show, “Hell’s Kitchen.” So the movie shifts gears. Inez flies Carl and Percy to Miami. She hooks Carl up with another ex-husband (Robert Downey Jr., delightfully wacky and smarmy,) who backs Carl in a new business: a food truck. Carl’s former sous-chef, Martin (an excellent, charming John Leguizamo) shows up, and the three, Carl, Percy and Martin, clean, re-fixture and paint the truck, now named El Jefe, and begin a cross-country trip home to L.A., financing it by offering simple Cuban sandwiches and some other food. Along the way the food truck stops in two actual food meccas. In New Orleans, Carl introduces Percy to Cafe du Monde and beignets (which, magically and ridiculously, they begin to fry in the food truck). In Austin, the truck’s crew visits Franklin’s Barbecue, where customers line up each morning two hours before the small restaurant opens (it closes whenever the day’s supply of brisket runs out.) Like the brisket, “Chef” sort of runs out of steam, too. The ending is brisk, pat and storybook pretty. But don’t let its sweetness erase the delicious taste of the comic, often touching entertainment Favreau has delivered. Played over a buoyant soundtrack of soul and Afro-Cuban music, highlighted by Pete Rodriguez and Perico Hernandez, “Chef” is a film that leaves you feeling happy and hungry. “Chef” is playing widely. It is rated R for language and sexual situations.

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