Trying to understand 21st century Russia

SALISBURY — Why do Russians overwhelmingly support Vladimir Putin? Longtime NPR foreign correspondent Anne Garrels, whose work in the old U.S.S.R. got her kicked out of the country and whose 2003 diary, “Naked in Baghdad,” recorded the days leading up to and following the American invasion of Iraq, will give her well-researched opinion at a Salisbury Forum on Friday, Oct. 21, at the Salisbury School.

In Iraq, Garrels recorded a nation foundering, losing its sense of nationhood and falling back on unpleasant characteristics of its history and its peoples. In her new book, “Putin Country,” Garrels stays away from the centers of action in Moscow and St. Petersburg. Instead she travels deep into the Russian heartland — 1,000 miles east of Moscow — to the mostly ruined industrial area of Chelyabinsk, which is now “one of the most polluted places on earth.” What she finds there is devastating.

Garrels, fluent in Russian, is cool in gathering stories and opinions, even as they contradict everything we would like to hear. As one man tells her, “Stalin renewed the country and made it stronger. Everything we have now is on the basis of what Stalin achieved. We are nothing without Putin.”

Everywhere Garrels hears excuses for the rampant corruption and porous justice system: Putin is smart and will restore the country’s international standing. As one man tells her, “When there is a fire, you don’t ask who the fireman is.”

Garrels has been visiting the Chelyabinsk area for nearly 25 years, and she tells its story in wonderfully personal chapters built around colorful people who have muddled through the transition from the old U.S.S.R. to today’s Russia of oligarchs and bluster and international meddling. She finds an almost universal need for national “greatness” and a willingness to blame the U.S. for all Russia’s problems, even declining morality.

Anne Garrels will speak and answer questions at a Salisbury Forum on Friday, Oct. 21, 7:30 p.m. at the Salisbury School. The program is free and open to all.

 

Leon Graham is president of the board of the Salisbury Forum.

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