In appreciation: Robert Willis

I knew Robert best as a superb, perfectionist chef. When my Texan brother came to visit several years ago, we had a meal at the first Café Giulia so good that he insisted on giving Robert personal congratulations for the fried oysters and the veal. (My brother fancies himself an Italian food cognoscenti: He spent time over many adult years studying the Italian language in Florence and Rome.)So when Sam came last summer, we went to the second Café Giulia for his farewell dinner. And what a meal. We ordered like Italians: an antipasto, primo, secondo and dolce for each of us. Plus a half order of Fishers Island oysters on the half shell. Each dish was splendid: simple Roman-style preparation of impeccable ingredients. Robert came to our table after each course for our comments.And that, I think, was what made dining with Robert so special. He cared what you thought of his food, he cared that some well known people in the community never “came to him,” as he put it. It was as if you were guests in his home (which, in fact, you were, since he lived upstairs) and he wanted you to be comfortable, satisfied. He wanted you to leave happy.And we always did.Leon GrahamSalisbury

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