Two degrees of Barry Kieselstein-Cord

MILLBROOK — On the corner of Millbrook’s tidy line of storefront windows on Franklin Avenue, Barry Kieselstein-Cord, legendary designer of sculptural jewelry and accessories for the famous and flashy, has set up his gallery, KCX. It is, in his words, “a laboratory for my work.”

Best known for the gold alligator that crawls across the clasp of leather bags, belts, or circling its body into a ring, Kieselstein-Cord launched his brand in 1972 and has been worn by such fearlessly fashionable stars as Jay-Z, Sharon Stone and Mick Jagger. A list of regular collectors includes Steven Spielberg and Oprah. 

Five years ago he moved up to Millbrook from New York City. In an interview at his gallery, Kieselstein-Cord explained his time out of the spotlight as a “forced sabbatical.” For him, it was a financial strategy to avoid disaster. 

“I predicted [the 2008 stock market crash] almost to the week — I don’t know how that happens, but I did.” 

He had sold his townhouse before the collapse of the hosing market and began the process of scaling back as he watched colleagues in the business close their doors. 

While contemplating his return on a larger scale (he still regularly sells to a loyal base of collectors online) KCX serves as a way to experiment. What days and what hours it’s open are entirely up to his whims, adding to the simmering mood of the unexpected. 

After all, many might not surmise that a central focus for a designer with handbags and bracelets displayed in the Metropolitan Museum of Art is, in fact, photography. His shots are often confrontational and provocative, combining the literal with the metaphorical to daringly tackle topics he opposes: fascism, gun culture, kidnapping. 

For December, he’s decided to pivot his photography in an entirely new (and cheerier) direction.

Wrapping around the walls and corners of the gallery like a giant, unspooled roll of film are 11-foot-long sheets of paper covered in black-and-white prints of Kieselstein-Cord’s photos through the years — all with the simple motif of good cheer. 

“It’s a light-hearted show. Since the country is totally upside-down at this point, we’re so politicized, I thought I would do something fun. Smiling, happy people. These are people who have been in my life, people I’ve been rubbing elbows with. There’s the play ‘Six-Degrees of Separation;’ this is more like two degrees.”

It’s a shimmering display of big poses and quick little grins, bikinis, cocktails, polo shirts and dinner parties, the flash bouncing off the high-beam cheeks of supernaturally smooth-faced women or a candid glance caught in the early morning. 

“There are lots of shots of ex’s on here. Ex-girlfriends, ex-wives, ex-lovers, ex-affairs …” 

His son and daughter are featured prominently, gifted with a rare beauty that’s both obvious and interesting. Visitors to the gallery will recognize Frédéric Fekkai, Blaine Trump, Ric Ocasek. Spotting the familiar within all of the faces is much of the fun. 

“I don’t really look at anyone else’s work if I can help it,”  Kieselstein-Cord said of his process. 

“I remember Calvin Klein asking where I got my inspiration from. The first time I was in his office he had hundred of magazines, fashion and art magazines from all over the world. I asked him why he had all of these magazines, they were fabulous, and he said, ‘That’s where I get all of my ideas from.’ He said, ‘Where do you get all of your ideas from?’ I said, ‘Out of my head.’”

The photos are on display at the gallery through the month of December. The hours, generally, are Friday through Sunday from noon to 5 p.m.