![Country market reopens with fresh take on local food](https://lakevillejournal.com/media-library/emma-terhar-and-tyler-forve-kept-guests-lining-up-for-more-during-the-soft-opening-of-cornwall-country-market-last-week.jpg?id=51105422&width=1245&height=700&quality=90&coordinates=0%2C255%2C0%2C656)
Emma Terhar and Tyler Forve kept guests lining up for more during the soft opening of Cornwall Country Market last week.
Photo by Kathryn Boughton
Emma Terhar and Tyler Forve kept guests lining up for more during the soft opening of Cornwall Country Market last week.
CORNWALL — When Henry Breen moved his little market up from the riverside to the newly established intersection of routes 4 and 7 during the Great Depression, it was touted as “the most up-to-date store between New Milford and Canaan.”
The market has seen various owners and various levels of care in the nine decades since then, but today, the description would be as valid as it was in 1935. The interior gleams with glass cases filled with made-from-scratch delicacies; an enclosed area for preparing gourmet chocolates, a sparkling kitchen; and a crisply clean, white-walled retail area. The shelves, which are still being filled, offer superior food products, while an alcove has been sequestered for a wide range of products produced by Cornwall crafters and farmers.
The market launched with a soft opening last week, but eager area denizens gave the newly installed staff nary a moment to draw a breath. The market swarmed with customers eager to buy lunch to-go or to consume a meal at the limited number of tables.
“Everyone is running at redline,” said co-proprietor Will Schenk, who has overseen the conversion of the market from a quaint country store to a sleek, 21st-century mercantile.
“Everyone locally talks about Baird’s from the generation previously,” said Schenk. “We spent so long working on building a new concept, a very different philosophy on food than before. I’m excited to finally open to validate these ideas. It’s a vision.”
The new iteration of the market is a combination of a “place for people to go grab a cup of coffee and sandwich, groceries, or our chocolates,” Schenk said.
Emphasis on freshness is being carried throughout the enterprise. “We’re using the market as a pantry for the kitchen,” said Schenk. “We want to bring in a lot of fresh fruit and vegetables — broccolini has been very popular this week — that people can purchase. We want to make the market a place where people can do their shopping for real, not just a last-minute thing they need on a Friday night.”
But because the emphasis will be on freshness, vegetables and fruit that are pushing their prime will be culled and whisked off the kitchen, where co-proprietor and chef Tyler Forve and sous chef Emma Terhaar will work their magic in transforming them into mouthwatering made-from-scratch dishes and sandwiches sure to tempt all three classifications of customers Schenk envisions.
“I see three different groups,” he said. “The locals who want a community spot, a place to hang out. Then there the tradespeople — they need to get in and get out. They want a sandwich and drinks, and they leave their trucks idling out front. And then there are the weekenders and tourists, people going along Route 7. They don’t know where they are, they just know they are hungry. These groups want very different things.
“I don’t think a country market is a viable business model now,” he said. “It may be better to do fewer things and to do them really well. In the world of Amazon, it doesn’t make sense to compete with that, so we will focus on delicious things. We’re making our own breads and sausages and providing the freshest vegetables we can.”
Schenk, who formerly owned a software business in New York City, moved his family to Cornwall in 2020 when COVID-19 tightened its grip on the country. “We found a house in February 2020 and came up for a long weekend — and we’re still here today.”
The family, which already has four children enrolled in Cornwall Consolidated School, is awaiting the imminent arrival of baby number five.
By 2022, the family was so thoroughly ensconced in the area, Schenk sold his business and began looking at the next chapter. He and Forve, his longtime friend, had already looked south at Colombian chocolate growers. “We were trying to find a way to buy chocolate and vanilla directly from the farmers — doing the proper thing down there — and shipping it up here,” he said.
“Since we get our chocolate directly from the grower, it’s remarkable,” he added, saying that the business model embraces sustainable agriculture. “Demand for chocolate is so high the question was ‘how do we find a viable system for the farmer so it doesn’t become a monoculture?’”
Contacts were made, a factory established, and Forve spent four years working in Colombia where he absorbed the culture and creation of quality chocolate. Forve, who trained under several Michelin-level chefs in the San Francisco Bay area, added that because they deal directly with the producers, the chocolate beans can be roasted to their specifications and even soaked in different flavors to give distinctive tastes. A special room was created in the market to make bonbons, paves, chocolate bark and other treats.
Schenk hopes chocolate will set his business apart and make it a destination for shoppers. He noted that winter is the peak sales period for chocolates, with holidays such as Christmas, Valentine’s Day and Easter.
“From our point of view, normally the winter is slow for tourism, but that is also the time when chocolate is at its peak. We hope to do a lot of e-commerce,” he said.
The business also purchases wild vanilla from Colombian farmers and uses it in the candies and such products as the crème fraiche atop pastries and the in-house ice creams.
“We were going to open a cafe in Cornwall Bridge, but for septic reasons, that didn’t happen,” Schenk explained. At the same time, the Cornwall Country Market, just across the road, went on the market, “so we shifted to that.” Schenk still owns the property across the street and “has a lot of ideas” for its use, predicting it will be “a larger part of the chocolate project.”
At present, there are 12 employees working in the market, some at their first jobs.
The market is open Monday-Saturday, 8-3 p.m.
Abstract art display in Wassaic for Upstate Art Weekend, July 18-21.
WASSAIC — Art enthusiasts from all over the country flocked to the Catskill Mountains and Hudson Valley to participate in Upstate Art Weekend, which ran from July 18 to July 21.
The event, which “celebrates the cultural vibrancy of Upstate New York”, included 145 different locations where visitors could enjoy and interact with art.
On Saturday, July 20, The Wassaic Project hosted numerous community events. Will Hutnick, the director of artistic programming, said “We’ve been a part of it since the beginning, this is the fifth year of UPAW.”
Most of the action was based at Maxon Mills, the seven-floor grain mill located in the heart of Wassaic. On exhibit was work from 30 artists, 18 of whom were past residents of The Wassaic Project. “Artists can come and do a residency here, meaning they live and work with one another for a couple months at a time,” Hutnick stated.
The first floor held work by Petra Szilagyi, who uses dirt and linseed oil to construct images of paranormal concepts, most of which include bats. They reflected that a recent trip to a fifth sense competition in Vietnam was the influence behind the exhibit.
Across the floor was Tiffany Smith’s interactive installation which incorporated plants and wicker chairs, all of which were objects associated with her Carribean upbringing. “The room being filled with plants is symbolic of hurricane prep which often included bringing the plants from outside into the house,” Smith said.
As visitors made their way up the narrow wooden stairs, music could be heard from behind the walls. The echoing music was Daniel Shieh’s installation, entitled Mother’s Anthem, which played a recording of the American Anthem in 30 languages. The languages ranged from Spanish and Italian to Navajo and Bengali.
Each floor was filled with artwork of all mediums, including painting, fibers, collage and photography. Rachel Bussières, who switched her concentration after watching the 2017 solar eclipse, uses varying light sources to produce lumen prints. During the wildfires, she recounted that she “made a new exposure each day to capture the changing air quality”.
Luciana Abait also incorporates the natural world into her pieces, instead using maps. An environmental activist originally from Argentina, Abait’s work highlights “environmental fragility, specifically the impacts it has on immigrants.” Her installation that is currently on display at Maxon Mills, takes the form of a mountain range built solely from maps of the US and Argentina.
Throughout the day, visitors could “Arm Wrestle 4 A Popsicle”. Winners had the choice of 3 playfully flavored trout-inspired popsicles - Nightcrawler, Power Bait, and Salmon Roe. Artist Katie Peck, who spent the day in costume as a rainbow trout, encouraged guests to step up and try their hand at an arm wrestle.
Shibori Indigo dyeing, group meditation, and dance workshops were open for community members of all ages as well.
While the daytime activities fostered appreciation of fixed art, a dance party until midnight at The Lantern Inn offered guests a space for performative art.
When describing the environment of The Wassaic Project, Smith emphasized, “It’s all community, it’s all love.”
A serene scene from the Amenia garden tour.
AMENIA — The much-anticipated annual Amenia Garden Tour drew a steady stream of visitors to admire five local gardens on Saturday, July 13, each one demonstrative of what a green thumb can do. An added advantage was the sense of community as neighbors and friends met along the way.
Each garden selected for the tour presented a different garden vibe. Phantom’s Rock, the garden of Wendy Goidel, offered a rocky terrain and a deep rock pool offering peaceful seclusion and anytime swims. Goidel graciously welcomed visitors and answered questions about the breathtaking setting.
Amenia Finance Director Charlie Miller welcomed visitors to his Bog Hollow Road garden in Wassaic, a manicured expansive yard with well-placed garden beds framing a far-reaching view. He said he plans carefully each winter for the next spring’s improvement.
The organic, environmentally responsible Maitri Farm was next, a lesson in coordinating agriculture with natural balance. The farm stand and a walk among the greenhouses brought visitors together.
Near the center of Amenia was the garden of Polly Pitts-Garvin, offering a chance to visit a robust vegetable garden with raised beds to be envious of and a remarkable absence of any insects or usual vegetable garden problems.
At Chez Cheese, the vast garden acreage surrounding the 1850s historic home of Joan Feeney and Bruce Phillips in Millerton, visitors could begin at refreshment stations where walking tour maps of the 15-acre property were available. There were streams and ponds with docks, and a dozen bridges arranged around the landscape. In the 19th-century, the property had been the home of the Wilson Cheese Factory, inspiring the name of the estate.
The Amenia Garden Tour was supported this year by Paley’s Garden Center in Sharon.
Gary Dodson working a tricky pool on the Schoharie Creek, hoping to lure something other than a rock bass from the depths.
PRATTSVILLE, N.Y. — The Schoharie Creek, a fabled Catskill trout stream, has suffered mightily in recent decades.
Between pressure from human development around the busy and popular Hunter Mountain ski area, serious flooding, and the fact that the stream’s east-west configuration means it gets the maximum amount of sunlight, the cool water required for trout habitat is simply not as available as in the old days.
This is not a new phenomenon. It does seem to be getting worse, though.
Gary Dodson and I convened where the creek makes its final run into the Schoharie reservoir, part of the New York City water supply system, on a semi-broiling Thursday afternoon, July 11.
The goal was simple. Catch smallmouth bass, which abound in the lower section of the river.
This was hot stuff — as in an 80-degree water temperature.
The air temperature was actually slightly less at 77.
After negotiating the intensely slippery rocks, festooned with treacherous algae, the first major pool presented several difficulties, with a back eddy competing with a main flow and several large trees draped about the whole thing.
I hit on the simplest strategy, which was to flip a weighted attractor fly called a Tequilley into the start of the eddy so it would proceed slowly but steadily into the maelstrom, sinking all the while.
This worked. A proper adult smallmouth, with bronze coloring and vertical stripes, took the thing.
The point-and-shoot camera finally died, however, and I was not going to try to fumble my phone out for a nice but routine fish photo.
Why not?
Because I guarantee the fish would have made a sudden, last-moment bolt for freedom, causing me to drop the device into the drink.
Gary moved downstream while I continued trying to annoy the residents of the pool, succeeding a couple of times with different colored Wooly Buggers.
Then we all got bored and I moved off, where Gary was catching rock bass and cussing them out for not being something else.
I have to admit, they are not the most compelling critters. Something about the red eyes.
This latest trip was dominated by extremely tedious and distasteful Harry Homeowner activities, but on both Wednesday and Thursday mornings I prowled Woodland Valley Creek. By “morning” I mean “dawn,” because that was when the water temps were down to a barely acceptable 64.
I made the acquaintance of several stocked browns and of a handful of their wild cousins. The wild fish are smaller and nimbler.
The successful ploy was an Adams wet fly, size 16, drifted behind something big, like a Parachute Adams or Stimulator.