Long-shuttered Geer Lodge café reopens with fresh focus

Chef Gina Trivelli-Young recently opened Manna Catering at the public café space at Geer Lodge in North Canaan.
Debra A. Aleksinas
Chef Gina Trivelli-Young recently opened Manna Catering at the public café space at Geer Lodge in North Canaan.
“A lot of my food is geared toward health...the nourishment of mind, body and soul.” —Chef Gina Trivelli-Young, owner of Manna Catering
NORTH CANAAN — After a pandemic-fueled, five-year hiatus, the public café space in the lobby of Geer Lodge is open for business with a new tenant and a fresh approach to eating healthy.
Chef Gina Trivelli-Young, who was classically trained at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, has opened Manna Catering in the café space formerly occupied by Railway Café.
She said her vision is to provide earth-to-table, fresh and locally sourced foods for lunch, dinner or to grab and go.
“A lot of my food is geared toward health, the nourishment of mind, body and soul,” said Trivelli-Young, who also runs a catering business and launched the now-closed Manna Dew Café in Millerton, New York.“If I can’t eat it, I won’t sell it.”
During an interview last week at Manna Catering, Trivelli-Young, who is also a holistic health coach and has built a loyal following as a caterer, spoke about her plans for the café space, her philosophy toward cooking and the challenges of drawing customers back to a space that has spent a few years in the dark.
She was joined briefly in the cozy eatery by Shaun Powell, CEO/CFO of Geer Village Senior Community, who expressed excitement about the Lodge’s new tenant.
An “Open” sign and daily menu welcomed visitors, and bouquets of seasonal, fresh flowers for sale from Crooked Oak Farm in Lakeville, graced the entrance.
“It’s great to see it open,” noted Powell. “Now we’re trying to get the word out. It has been closed since March 2020, the day the world changed,” he said referring to March 11, when the World Health Organization (WHO) declared the global pandemic. Now, he said, the challenge is to reinvigorate the public’s interest.
To help spread the word about Manna Catering’s arrival, Powell said several “joint promotional events” will be held in the upcoming weeks in conjunction with local businesses, the Y on campus, farms and employees.
“We’re anxious to help create a vibrant atmosphere here at the Lodge,” said Powell.
Chef, caterer, holistic healing coach
Trivelli-Young came to her passion for food at an early age, savoring the aromas of her mother’s Italian kitchen where there was always something fresh and healthy simmering on the stove.
Those early encounters with good food, she said, formed the cornerstone of her philosophy toward cooking: let the food speak for itself by using clean ingredients in their purest state, enhanced by fresh herbs and aromatics.
Her cooking, said the chef, “needs to be clean and it needs to be nourishing. Nothing artificial. It has to be of the highest quality.”
Rather than a style of cooking, the chef defines her approach as a way of respecting food and bringing it to the tale in a way that “accentuates its natural flavors and conserves its healing properties.”
In parallel with her interest and training in culinary arts was Trivelli-Young’s involvement with health and healing, which began with a teenage summer job in a health food store and culminating with her certification as a Holistic Nutrition Health Coach.
For more than two decades, she has been a private chef, caterer, holistic healing coach in the tri-state area. Her clients, she said, range from those seeking catering for private dinner parties to individuals with food restrictions and sensitivities who need healthy meals delivered to their homes.
“My philosophy is that food is the best medicine,” noted Trivelli-Young.
Her clients also consist of busy working mothers who want to provide simply prepared, nutritious meals to their families.
Introducing Friday Supper Club
The menu at Manna Catering is refreshed weekly using locally sourced, farm-fresh ingredients and seasonal produce. Sandwiches, salads, soups and nourish bowls feature local meats and cheeses.
Customers can stop by and order lunch on the spot or call ahead to have lunch ready upon arrival.
On a recent visit, the menu included roasted pepper/tomato parmesan bisque, borsch soup, Thai shrimp curry with rice pilaf (pre-order), Tex-Mex chili and herb-goat cheese and smoked salmon sandwich with roasted peppers, cucumber, tomato and greens.
Also featured were an avocado, blue cheese, buffalo chicken salad wrap, classic chicken salad wrap with red grapes and fresh herbs, chicken fajita bowl or salad, roasted portobello mushroom and Vermont goat cheese salad made with roasted beets, raspberries and honey roasted pecans and vinaigrette.
Refreshments include smoothies, made with fresh fruit, coconut juice, collagen and monk fruit for natural sweetener, as sugar, she noted, “Is very bad for you,” as well as a large selection of organic drinks, Harney teas, kombucha and iced coffee. Desserts are made fresh daily.
Trivelli-Young said she is also excited to launch supper club night on Fridays. Customers can place orders for an appetizer, salad and entree by Tuesday and pick up their freshly made dinner on Friday afternoon.
“I like the old-fashioned concept of a supper club,” said the chef. “I’m meeting the needs of people who are very busy,” or second-homeowners who are coming up to the area for the weekend.
“Everything is made from scratch,” she noted, “and it’s important that I put my love into it every single week.”
Currently, Manna Catering is open to the public at Geer Lodge Wednesday through Friday from 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. with catering available for private events at other times. Customers can order ahead to have lunch ready upon arrival by calling (860) 824-2610, or text (845) 233-8513.
Join The Lakeville Journal for a community celebration, featuring local nonprofits and businesses, festive family fun, great food, and engaging activities.
What to Expect:
See you at the Lakeville Journal Street Fair!
If you have any questions, please email streetfair@lakevillejournal.com
Cobbler n’ Cream
5 to 7 p.m.
Freund’s Farm Market & Bakery | 324 Norfolk Rd.
Canaan Carnival
6 to 10 p.m.
Bunny McGuire Park
Canaan Carnival
6 to 10 p.m.
Bunny McGuire Park
Cocktail Party
5 to 7 p.m.
Douglas Library | 108 Main St.
Canaan Carnival
6 to 10 p.m.
Bunny McGuire Park
Boot Drive
8 a.m. to 2 p.m.
North Canaan Fire Co. | 4 E. Main St.
3rd Annual Fly-In
8 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Triumph Airfield | 547 W. Main St.
Canaan Railroad Station Museum
10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Canaan Union Station
New England Accordion Connection
9 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Canaan Union Station
Canaan Carnival
3 to 10 p.m.
Bunny McGuire Park
Berkshire Resilience Brass Band
5 to 8 p.m.
Canaan Union Station
Barbecued Chicken Dinner
5 to 7 p.m.
St. Martin of Tours | 4 Main St.
Canaan Fireman’s parade
6 p.m.
Rosa setigera is a native climbing rose whose simple flowers allow bees to easily collect pollen.
After moving to West Cornwall in 2012, we were given a thoughtful housewarming gift: the 1997 edition of “Dirr’s Hardy Trees and Shrubs.” We were told the encyclopedic volume was the definitive gardener’s reference guide — a fact I already knew, having purchased one several months earlier at the recommendation of a gardener I admire.
At the time, we were in the thick of winter invasive removal, and I enjoyed reading and dreaming about the trees and shrubs I could plant to fill in the bare spots where the bittersweet, barberry, multiflora rose and other invasive plants had been.Years later, I purchased the 2011 edition, updated and inclusive of plants for warm climates.
On the cover of the new edition, a quote from Adrian Higgins of The Washington Post boasts, “Michael Dirr is the oracle of ornamental horticulture. I trust his judgements implicitly.”I heartily disagree with Mr. Higgins:I blame this book — and my poor use of it — for some of my worst tree and shrub choices.
I realize some readers might find this declaration inflammatory. The book still occupies a place of high regard among experienced and novice gardeners alike, so please allow me to explain.
In addition to giving the reader his opinion on the aesthetic worthiness of the woody plants included in the book, Mr. Dirr makes good on the book’s title with a review of each species’ hardiness. What makes a tree hardy?It thrives in its intended site, resisting disease with leaves and bark not readily eaten by insects and other critters.
Non-native plants make up the majority of the recommended hardy plants in the book.And here is why:Native trees and shrubs are, by evolution’s design, food source and host to our native fauna — critters large and small. There is no substitute equal to the fauna’s co-evolved flora.A native caterpillar cannot eat a kousa dogwood leaf, as it has not evolved to digest it.Non-native plants seemingly have the advantage if the lens we look through values pristine, uneaten leaves.
In the days when there were sufficient thriving ecosystems to maintain local habitats, a non-native specimen tree here and there was just fine.But where we live in Northwest Connecticut, our woods, meadows, marshes and other natural areas have, for a couple of decades, been severely compromised by invasives that have almost entirely removed the food sources for native insects. It is up to us — now — to plant native plants to save the food chain.Without insects, not only will native animals die, but human food sources will also be at risk.
The security of our food pipeline seems a worthy exchange for some caterpillar-eaten leaves — and to be clear, we’re not talking about non-native infestations such as spongy moth, but rather native caterpillars, which are the singular food source for nesting birds.
My issue is that, in being a trusted source for plant selection, Dirr’s book should give equal — if not prioritized — space to information on ecological impact.For example, it would be good to know when selecting a tree, that a native oak provides food and other ecosystem services to more than 400 native animal species, while a native tulip poplar supports fewer than 30 — though that includes the Eastern tiger swallowtail. Including information on the birds and insects attracted to a given plant would enable reader to weigh these factors in choosing what to grow.But this information is not mentioned at all.
Dirr makes no mention of the role some of these plants have played in the degradation of our natural areas — an omission that is highly relevant, as many of the plants featured in his book are, in fact, invasive culprits. Plants like barberry, porcelain berry and tree of heaven are showcased for consideration alongside native plants without recognition of the devastating infestations they can manifest. Tree of Heaven is now responsible for hosting the spotted lanternfly, which is devastating crops.
Similarly Euonymous alatus (winged euonymous) and Actinidia arguta (hardy kiwi) — two highly invasive plants touted in the book — have been banned or are close to being banned for sale from nurseries in the state of Massachusetts. To his credit, Dirr does point out the invasive nature of Ligustrum sinense (Chinese privet), calling it “a terrible and devastating escapee that terrorizes floodplains, fencerows and even open fields, reducing native vegetation to rubble.” Yet Japanese honeysuckle gets an understated warning, with Dirr describing this massively invasive shrub as “bullying their way into understory and open areas.”
The latest edition of Dirr’s book devotes seven pages of copy and photos to various Berberis species, about which Dirr waxes poetic. He notes the addition of “30 new cultivars” in the latest revision and complains that “this species is under assault for its aggressive invasive nature.” He refers to Berberis thunbergii — Japanese barberry, the most invasive of them all — as “the species of major importance in garden commerce.” This plant has already been outlawed for sale in New York, Pennsylvania, New Hamphsire and Maine.A few weeks ago, a bill was passed in Connecticut recognizing the harm of a broad group of invasive plants. Under this new legislation, barberry will be phased out from sale or transport by October 2028.
In understating the invasive nature of many non-natives and de-prioritizing the importance of native species, Dirr’s widely used reference may be partly responsible for many a devastated woodland, forest, meadow and marsh in New England — if not across the U.S.Certainly, the evolution of species, and scientific knowledge about the environment, is changing faster than new editions of books can be printed. I can only hope that if a new edition of Mr. Dirr’s reference book is in the works that it will account for this criteria we now know to be vital in plant selection.
Which brings me back to that quote on the cover from The Washington Post and the larger issue it suggests:Should “ornamental horticulture” get a pass when it comes to ecological survival?I think we can agree — it should not.The consequences are simply too destructive.
Dee Salomon ‘ungardens’ in Litchfield County.
Foxtrot Farm & Flowers’ historic barn space during UAW’s 2024 exhibition entitled “Unruly Edges.”
Art lovers, mark your calendars. The sixth edition of Upstate Art Weekend (UAW) returns July 17 to 21, with an exciting lineup of exhibitions and events celebrating the cultural vibrancy of the region. Spanning eight counties and over 130 venues, UAW invites residents and visitors alike to explore the Hudson Valley’s thriving creative communities.
Here’s a preview of four must-see exhibitions in the area:
1. Wassaic Project (37 Furnace Bank Road, Wassaic)
“So It Goes” is a powerful group exhibition curated by Eve Biddle, Bowie Zunino, Jeff Barnett-Winsby, and Will Hutnick. The title, drawn from Kurt Vonnegut’s “Slaughterhouse-Five,” signals a reckoning with how we process the horrors of the world. Through play, reflection, and immersive scale, 43 artists respond with urgency and imagination. Installations can be seen throughout the town of Wassaic at Maxon Mills, Gridley Chapel, and Luther Barn, each space transformed by this deeply thoughtful show.
2. Foxtrot Farm & Flowers (6862 Route 82, Stanfordville)
“Queer Bestiary,” a group show curated by Charlotte Woolf, is inspired by Patricia Ononiwu Kaishian’s book “Forest Euphoria.” The exhibition investigates queer ecology and human relationship to land through the work of 10 artists using painting, sculpture, textiles, and photography. The exhibit is accompanied by a variety of interactive experiences including tattoo pop-ups, karaoke, book readings, and pick-your-own flowers.
3. ChaShaMa North/ChaNorth (2600 Route 199, Pine Plains)
ChaShaMa North (ChaNorth) will have open studios all weekend and has partnered with Paradice Palase, a platform for emerging artists, to mount a site-specific sculpture exhibition featuring 20 artists entitled “Alone, You Are Heard.” On Saturday evening, July 19, stop by for Weird Music Night for an audio-visual synthesis of experimental music, performance art, and unexpected happenings. Don’t miss this opportunity to experience an eclectic lineup of acts that redefine the boundaries of performance.
4. Millbrook Arts Project(3 Friendly Lane, Millbrook)
The Millbrook Arts Project is hosting a curated exhibit entitled “Generated Utility” at the newly renovated gallery at the village library. The exhibit will feature the work of artists Natalie Beall and Kathy Greenwood. Additionally, visitors will have access to 12 open artists studios across town. The weekend culminates in a free outdoor concert on Saturday evening at 6 p.m. at the Millbrook Bandshell. Enjoy the Indie-Folk sounds of Strawberry Runners and She Keeps Bees.
For more information and a complete list of participating artists and locations, visit: upstateartweekend.org