Thank you!
Your support is sustaining the future of local news in our communities.

Eating invasives: Sustainability and indulgence unite at Swyft for Green Crab Week

Eating invasives: Sustainability and indulgence unite at Swyft for Green Crab Week

Green crab arancini, with crab provided by Wulf’s Fish and napa cabbage from Rock Cobble Farm.

Allison Mitchell

KENT — Kent’s New American tavern Swyft had an unusual addition to its menu of locally-sourced, elevated fare last week – the European green crab, an invasive crustacean that has wreaked havoc on New England’s fisheries and coastal ecosystems, but which also happens to be very tasty.

“People just don’t know that they’re delicious,” Executive Chef Ryan Carbone said during a moment of respite between the Friday, June 27, lunch and dinner rushes. “They can be eaten and we can do our part to control the population to a degree.”

What brought this unlikely ingredient into Swyft’s kitchen was an initiative called Green Crab Week, which took place from June 20-29. The yearly event is an exposition in which gastronome-meets-sustainability nonprofit GreenCrab.Org partners with restaurants, fishmongers, fisherman and other seafood-oriented organizations to demonstrate the culinary versatility of this small but ecologically devastating crab.

Native to the eastern North Atlantic, the green crab was introduced to New England waters in the early 19th century, likely brought over in the ballasts of European merchant ships. Since then, it has established itself along the coast from South Carolina to Newfoundland, severely impacting eelgrass habitat and shellfish populations throughout its new range. It has also found a footing on North America’s west coast, Australia and South Africa, and is expected to push even further afield as climate change alters ocean temperatures and ecosystems.

Swyft was one of three Connecticut restaurants — and the only in the interior — to participate in Green Crab Week out of more than 75 businesses along the East Coast. Other partnering establishments were BLDG, in New Haven, and The Shipwright’s Daughter in Mystic. Oakville, Connecticut’s seafood purveyor To The Gills also joined in.

Carbone said David Standridge, founder and executive chef at the sustainable seafood-focused Shipwright’s Daughter, embraced the green crab at his restaurant early on. Carbone cited Standridge, alongside a Boston-based fish wholesaler he uses called Wulf’s Fish that regularly stocks the crab, as his inspiration for taking part in this year’s Green Crab Week.

“I just wanted to do our part in the Northwest Corner,” he said.

While it’s Swyft’s first foray into Green Crab Week, Carbone affirmed that sustainability and environmental consciousness fit firmly into the restaurant’s ethos, which it shares with its hyperlocal tasting-menu restaurant next door, Ore Hill. Protecting the land that provides the food, and the livelihoods of those who harvest it, is central to a responsible and respectful chef’s mission, he said.

And when it comes to seafood, it’s personal: “It’s my favorite thing to cook. It’s my favorite thing to eat. And all the things we love to eat in New England — the lobsters, the clams, what have you —are affected by this green crab population.”

Carbone said he hopes a sustaining green crab fishery develops in the region, not only to keep their numbers in check but also because they’re simply a great addition to the kitchen.

For Swyft’s crab week menu, Carbone opted to make a stock to act as a risotto base – a method which uses the entire animal and doesn’t require the wasteful and time-consuming process of picking meat from the small crustaceans.

Carbone’s stock crushed the meat and shells together in a boil flavored with aromatics like onion and garlic alongside “a couple kinds of seaweed to reinforce that ocean flavor.”

The result was a “really, really aromatic, flavorful stock” that was used to cook the risotto that would be deep fried into arancini for an appetizer or shared plate. The fried risotto balls were served on a bed of seaweed aioli and vinegar-chili dressed napa cabbage sourced from the Ore Hill & Swyft-owned Rock Cobble Farm just several miles down the road in South Kent.

The experience wasn’t only gastronomic — servers chatted with guests about the species and GreenCrab.Org’s work. At the meal’s end, informational cards prepared by the nonprofit were dropped with the bill so that diners returned home with more than just a sated palate.

While Green Crab Week is over, Carbone said his time with the invasive has just begun: “It’s a versatile ingredient, and I’m really excited to dig in after this week and start to use it and incorporate it into more of my food.”

Latest News

Baseball, wine and jazz at Millbrook Winery

Bernie Williams and his Band of Friends at Millbrook Winery in 2025.

Provided

Throughout the history of Major League Baseball, precious few greats have been considered five-tool players. New York Yankee Bernie Williams was one of them.

To be considered a five tool player, one must show exceptional proficiency in five categories: hitting for average, hitting for power, running bases, fielding and arm strength. But there’s another tool Williams possesses that didn’t make it to the back of his baseball card: his mastery of jazz guitar.

Keep ReadingShow less
Lucky Orphans offers sanctuary for horses and healing for people

Deanna Hearn opened Lucky Orphans in 2003.

Provided
If horses could speak, Hearn believes they would offer just one piece of advice: “They’d tell us to slow down.”

From feeding retired racehorses before sunrise to guiding veterans, grieving parents and troubled teenagers through equine-assisted therapy sessions, Deanna Hearn rarely has a quiet day. As founder of Lucky Orphans Horse Rescue in Dover Plains, she oversees the care of more than 40 sanctuary horses while leading a nonprofit whose mission extends far beyond animal rescue.

What began as a childhood love of horses has evolved into a place where healing runs in both directions — for horses and for people. By the time you leave Lucky Orphans, it becomes clear that this place isn’t really about horses. The horses are simply how it begins. For Hearn, every rescued horse represents something much larger: hope, resilience, healing and second chances. The organization’s mission, she says, is simple: “People helping horses heal people.”

Keep ReadingShow less
Weekend in Norfolk returns for four days of art, music and community

A brass quintet at the Yale Music Shed at Weekend in Norfolk 2025.

Jennifer Almquist

Norfolk bursts with activity in midsummer with Weekend in Norfolk (WIN). An all-volunteer committee transforms the town with free public events for all ages. WIN 2026 begins Thursday, July 30, and runs through Sunday, Aug. 2.

Norfolk sculptor Jon Riedeman, the new head of Norfolk Artists and Friends (NAF), organized the group’s 19th annual art exhibition, featuring paintings, sculpture, photography and jewelry by area artists in the Art Barn on the grounds of the Norfolk Chamber Music Festival. Riedeman expanded the show this year by inviting artists from New Marlborough, Massachusetts, to participate. The exhibit opens with a reception Thursday, July 30, from 5 to 7 p.m.

Keep ReadingShow less
google preferred source

Want more of our stories on Google? Click here to make us a Preferred Source.

Laurie Anderson brings four days of music, art and conversation to Tanglewood

Multimedia pioneer Laurie Anderson makes Tanglewood debut with a weekend of performances.

Ebru Yildiz

Musician, composer, performing artist and multimedia pioneer Laurie Anderson is one of the most influential and controversial figures in American contemporary and avant-garde arts. Her ambitious multimedia projects, encompassing music, film, visual projections, dance, and the spoken and written word, have enjoyed great public visibility, and Anderson has been recognized with many honors, including a Grammy Lifetime Achievement Award, as well as the Gold Medal for Music from the American Academy of Arts and Letters and this year’s Kyoto Prize for Arts and Philosophy in the field of music.

Anderson will make her Tanglewood debut in a series of special events and performances Aug. 13-16, along with longtime collaborators and special guests, giving audiences an opportunity to experience her groundbreaking and challenging work, which has been received with both acclaim and confusion for its wit, innovation and interdisciplinary scope.

Keep ReadingShow less
Campus mental health expert to speak at Sharon Book Signing
Author and psychiatrist Mathilde Ross offers help for students navigating campus mental health.
Marissa Fiorucci

As August looms, college students begin to think about the upcoming academic year. Concerns over roommate compatibility or maintaining good grades are common. But for some, mental health challenges can arise in the campus setting.

Author and psychiatrist Mathilde Ross deals with the subject in her book “How to Thrive at College: A Guide to the Ups and Downs of Mental Health on Campus.” Ross, the daughter of Cicily and Joseph Hajek of Sharon, will be among the writers featured at the Hotchkiss Library’s 28th annual Sharon Summer Book Signing on July 31 from 4:45 to 7:30 p.m.

Keep ReadingShow less

The art of bringing travel home

The art of bringing travel home
Bringing the taste of France home with a container of salt.
Kerri-Lee Mayland

Perhaps that’s why summer travel is so irresistible. It isn’t just the promise of sunshine or a change of scenery. It’s the chance to step outside our routines, notice how other people live, taste something we’ve never tasted before, discover a beautiful object made by local hands and come home just a little different than when we left.

The best trips don’t end at the airport or in the driveway. They continue in the way we cook, decorate, entertain and even dress. That’s why I always try to bring a little piece of wherever I’ve been home with me.

Keep ReadingShow less
google preferred source

Want more of our stories on Google? Click here to make us a Preferred Source.

google preferred source

Want more of our stories on Google? Click here to make us a Preferred Source.