Amenia’s Isabela settling in to fine-dining scene

AMENIA — Since opening six months ago, Isabela has grown as the American bistro it is within the popular local food community and continued to grow thanks to a sophisticated menu and devoted clientele.

“There have been lots of menu changes, maybe four or five times the menu has changed since opening,” said chef/owner José Ramirez Ruiz during an interview on Wednesday, Aug. 13.

For example, new to the menu and popular is a monkfish skewer that includes squid, turmeric, tomatoes and crushed potatoes. That he became animated as he described the cooking process, a clear hint that the dish should be ordered and savored.

“We’re trying to be as seasonal as possible,” Ramirez Ruiz said.

Popular also is the Clams and Tomatoes appetizer with parsley, onions and cucumber, a perfect way to start a memorable meal.

It has been a lifetime of cooking for Ramirez Ruiz — who had a restaurant in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, immediately before coming to open in Amenia. Past experience has included high-end restaurant kitchens in Europe and even an Irish pub in Massachusetts.

Incidentally, Isabela is named not for a person but for the town in Puerto Rico where Ramirez Ruiz grew up.

“The support from the local community has been humbling,” Ramirez Ruiz said with certainty. “Truly, people are telling us they want to see us succeed.”

The first month after opening on March 26 was busy because everyone was visiting out of natural curiosity, but now the business has settled into a good steady population of regulars and area residents attracted by hearing good reports.

For those who track the price of oysters offered locally, Isabela features oysters at $2 each during Happy Hour, and the bar burger is noteworthy because each ingredient is created in the kitchen. That is, the beef is ground, the cheese mixture is in-house, and the other flavor enhancers are made by hand, not to mention that the bun is made there, not bought. “The sourdough bread is amazing,” Ramirez Ruiz said, noting that it is made with local grains. Customers are buying loaves to take home, he added.

In fact, local sourcing is key to Isabela’s entire restaurant philosophy. Wines are from local small-volume producers, beers and ciders are local. 41 different local and area farms and producers supply the restaurant, Ramirez Ruiz said. Half, from surrounding states, supply meats, fish, vegetables and more for the menu and the other half, from New York State supply the bar.

As for staffing, Adam and Liz have been capably serving customers in the bar since the opening.

“We’ve been complimented on our service,” he said. “Service is a significant aspect.”

Ramirez Ruiz noted that he spends 20 to 30 minutes each day in staff training.

Isabela is located at 3330 Route 343 in Amenia. For information on restaurant hours, go to www.isabela-amenia.com or phone 845-789-1007.