Reverse trolling, salty guides and smash burgers

Gary Dodson worked the Salmon River on a cold morning in April.
Patrick L. Sullivan

Gary Dodson worked the Salmon River on a cold morning in April.
I went back to the Salmon River in and around Pulaski — pronounced Pulask-EYE — New York for a couple of days in late April.
My mentor in these things, Gary Dodson, is my main Catskill fishing buddy. Last year he convinced me to go to the famous Salmon River and chase steelhead, and I actually caught one on a fly rod.
I did not do this on this trip. But I did catch one. More on this in a moment.
Day one we hit it at dawn, and it was cold at 35 degrees, plus a gentle breeze from the Arctic Circle that made everything just so.
The river was high enough at about 1,400 cubic feet per second to make for some tricky wading.
We covered almost all the Douglaston Salmon Run area on foot and tried everything we could think of, Gary with his two-handed rods and me with a single hand 8 weight.
The result was nil.
After a solid six hours of this we stumbled back to the truck and returned to our little lodge, where we ate something and then we made a critical mistake.
We both decided to rest our eyes for just a little while.
That was at about 2 p.m. We both woke up around 5:30 p.m., and quickly concluded that the strong, manly course of action was to skip suiting up again and instead go to the restaurant at the Tailwater Lodge in nearby Altmar, where I resumed my study of the American Cheeseburger platter.
They call it a “smash burger” now, but it’s the same basic thing, and it’s still very good.
Upon our return I watched an exploitation flick from 1974 called “TNT Jackson.” Gary, who has no taste in these matters, sacked out.
Day two was considerably warmer but we still got skunked. However, we didn’t go at dawn so by early afternoon we were not completely knackered.
We had mangled a bit of lunch and were contemplating the afternoon’s strategy when Gary’s phone rang.
It was Salmon River guide Marcus Mcgivney calling to say he had the afternoon free and did we want to go for a boat ride.
We did.
This was a first for me. I have never fished with a guide, or from a drift boat.
We set off from the fly-fishing only area, keeping an eye out as the radar showed some slight unpleasantness developing over Lake Ontario.
Marcus has been doing this a while, and it shows.
The first thing I noticed was that he has a version of the Grateful Dead logo from the “Steal Your Face” album on the side of the boat. It’s got a fish on it and the lettering reads “Steel Your Face,” not “Steal.”
The first thing he noticed was the flow was greatly reduced. He checked his phone and sure enough, the release from the dam upstream was way down from the morning.
We set off and fooled around with our fly rods a while, getting still more bupkis.
Then Marcus asked if we wanted to try plugging.
We did.
Gary had described this to me, but it was so far outside my experience he might as well have been lecturing on contemporary dance trends in Paraguay.
Marcus described the following method as “reverse trolling,” and that’s about as close to it as I can get in a family newspaper.
Here’s the gist. There are three sturdy rods equipped with level line reels in holders on the port and starboard sides of the boat, plus one over the bow.
The plugs are big nasty-looking lures with treble hooks. They are let out to specific lengths — 20 feet, 30 feet — in front of the boat.
The sports — that’s Gary and yours truly — sat up front watching the rods. The guide — Marcus — manipulated the boat as the plugs wiggled and shimmied around downstream.
In regular trolling a lure or bait is towed behind a boat.
This is the opposite.
Eventually a steelhead gets fed up with looking at the plug shimmying and wiggling around and hits it.
And then it’s pure pandemonium. One of the sports has to deal with the rod that’s got the fish on while the other reels in the other rods so everything doesn’t get all tangled up.
Gary had done this before so when the first one went off on his side he got it in with a minimum of fuss.
When it was my turn I did everything wrong. We still managed to get the fish in but as Marcus said afterwards, “You have to forget everything you know about fishing.”
The physical strength involved in maneuvering the boat around with a set of oars, no motor, is considerable. Then there’s the monitoring of the three plugs. Add to that his knowledge of the river’s topography, plus the habits of steelhead, and you’ve got what separates the modestly-talented amateur — me — from the pro — Marcus.
As we moved from spot to spot, he also spoke at length about restoration efforts along the river. He hailed other guides in other boats, chattered with anglers on the banks, occasionally offering some quick tactical advice, and kept up a stream of commentary that was extremely entertaining.
It was also pretty salty. You’ll have to wait for my memoirs for the unexpurgated version.
If you want a memorable experience Marcus does business as Grateful Adventures LLC, 352-348-7721 or Mmcgivney@paulsmiths.edu.
The newest video by Eric Veden follows a tour of town led by Bill Beebe, pictured above, and Judy Jacobs.
FALLS VILLAGE — Eric Veden’s 36th installment of his Falls Village video series includes an October 2024 Housatonic Heritage walk through downtown Falls Village led by Judy Jacobs and Bill Beebe.
In the video, participants gather at the Depot, home of the Falls Village–Canaan Historical Society. As the group sets out along Railroad Street, Jacobs notes that the Depot was constructed between 1842 and 1844 to serve the newly established railroad.
Jacobs pauses by one house, explaining that it was originally built by the railroad, has a murder in its history, and is said to be haunted — supposedly.
The footage follows the group along Prospect and Miner streets as they admire the architecture and discuss the stories behind the houses. The tour spent some time examining the largest cottonwood tree in Connecticut, on Beebe Hill Road. The tree with its massive base has been significantly pruned in the upper reaches.
The film captures the group pausing to view, from a distance, an 18th-century home once known for its Revolutionary-era dances — a house that still bears a couple of bullet holes in its old windows.
Viewers then see the group mosey down Beebe Hill to Main Street, with Jacobs and Beebe providing interesting tidbits about the buildings, such as:
100 Main St., now devoted to fine home furnishings, was automotive legend John Fitch’s shop.
The video also includes the former Toymakers Café site, which was once a hardware store. Jacobs recounts hearing stories of a spur line from the railroad running to the property for deliveries, with the cars likely pulled by horses.
With the property up for sale and its future uncertain, programming is winding down at the iconic Race Brook Lodge in Sheffield, Massachusetts. But there are still events on the calendar designed to carry music lovers through the winter and into spring.
From Friday, Nov. 21, to Monday, Nov. 24, Race Brook Lodge will hold its Fall Gratitude Festival. Celebrating the tail end of fall before the colder depths of winter, the festival features an eclectic mix of music from top-notch musicians.
The festival begins Friday, Nov. 21, with an evening of Indian classical music with Eric Fraser (bansuri flute), Abhik Mukherjee (sitar), Mir Naqibul Islam (tabla) and Vinay Desai (santoor). Fraser is one of the few exponents of the original “gayaki-ang,” or vocal style, of bansuri flute. He is also a key member of Brooklyn Raga Massive, a nonprofit musicians’ collective that creates cross-cultural understanding through the lens of South Asian classical music. Fraser’s playing rings with authenticity and pure Indian tone, carrying a distinct and masterful sound imbibing a pure gharana, or lineage. He is also a multi-instrumentalist, educator, composer and songwriter.
On Saturday, Nov. 22, Palestinian multi-instrumentalist Zafer Tawil (qanun, violin, nay) performs alongside friend and collaborator Rabbi Zachi Asher (oud), offering Arabic maqam, Sufi trance, piyut and tarab sounds that bring ancient desert traditions to life. Tawil and Asher present a rare vision of collaborative futures at the crossroads of art and justice, music and spirituality. For this performance, Duo al Rouh will be joined by vocalist Zahra Zubaidi, percussionist Rich Stein, violinist Megan Gould, belly dancer Myrto Daskaloudi and other special guests.
Rabbi Asher will also lead a special Shabbat gathering, ceremony and dinner with songs, teachings, dance, stillness, silliness, poetry and wilderness time for adults and kids on Friday, Nov. 21. Everyone is welcome. Shabbat dinner is included.
On Sunday, Nov. 23, master Senegalese sabar percussionist Aba Diop performs with fellow griot artists and global collaborators the Yermande Family. The group’s full-length release, “Family,” affirms sabar as a rhythmic language that has shaped music across continents and centuries and continues to shape what comes next. The group takes its name from the Wolof word “yermande,” which means compassion, care for others and deep respect for community.
Closing out the festival on Monday, Nov. 24, keyboardist John Medeski, along with bandleader Mike Rivard on bass and sintir, Will Bernard (guitar), Mister Rourke (turntables) and Dean Johnston (drums), performs as Club d’Elf. Club d’Elf has been helping audiences lose track of time for 27 years with its synthesis of Moroccan traditional music and electronic, dubbed-out funk.
Race Brook Lodge is a restaurant, inn and event space that provides a place for guests to engage with nature, culture and community. With a commitment to sustainability and accessibility, Race Brook Lodge is a unique Berkshire institution. The property is for sale and long-time owners Dave Rothstein, Casey Rothstein-Fitzpatrick and Saadia Khan hope that the new owners “will care for the property in a way that is respectful to the land and our local community,” said a social media post.
For tickets to the Fall Gratitude Festival, visit rblodge.com/fall-gratitude-festival-2025.
Ayni Herb Farm will be one of themany local vendors at Foxtrot’s Farm & Friends Market Nov. 22-23 in Stanfordville.
As the days grow shorter and the first hints of winter settle in, galleries, studios, barns, village greens and community halls across the region begin their annual transformation into warm, glowing refuges of light and handmade beauty.
This year’s holiday fairs and DIY workshops offer chances not just to shop, but to make—whether you’re mixing cocktails and crafting ornaments, gathering around a wreath-making table, or wandering markets where makers, bakers, artists and craftspeople bring their best of the season. These events are mutually sustaining, fueling both the region’s local economy and the joy of those who call it home.
This year, there is an especially community-driven spirit to area craft fairs and makers markets. Nowhere is that clearer than at Foxtrot’s first annual Farm & Friends Market, Nov. 22-23 in Stanfordville, a new collaboration between farmers, makers and neighbors designed to bring people together in an intentional, deeply local way.
“Farm & Friends Market is a collaborative, warm and cozy, pre-holiday gathering,” said co-organizer Kate Farrar of Foxtrot Farm & Flowers. “It blends the charm of a winter market with the connection and quality of a local food and makers fair. Think fresh produce, pantry goods, handmade gifts, twinkle lights, good smells, warm beverages and friendly faces.”
Farrar said the aim was to create something “not rushed or overly commercial, but festive, simple and meaningful.” The vendors are people she and co-organizer Anja Rothe, of Fat of the Land Apothecary, already knew and have worked alongside. “If we find success in this collective model, which we hope and plan to, we hope to accept new vendors in years to come,” said Farrar.
To further support the artists and creatives at Farm & Friends Market, vendors don’t pay to be there. “We are collectively hosting a market that is not pay-to-play,” Farrar said. “We build and host this market together in the spirit of collaboration and mutual benefit for the small businesses that make the Hudson Valley so special. If you love small businesses, this is the market to attend.” A weekend raffle will also benefit the Tri-Corner Feed. For more info and a list of vendor, visit: foxtrotfarmflowers.com
Here is a list of other upcoming craft fairs, markets and DIY gatherings to fill your season with creativity, connection and a little magic.
Nov. 21: Craft and Cocktails at the David M. Hunt Library: An evening of crafting and cocktails where participants will have a chance to turn old hardcovers into faux floral displays. Visit huntlibrary.org for more information.
Nov. 22: The Hotchkiss Library in Sharon will host a workshop on making woven holiday cards with Anne Cameron. More info: hotchkisslibrary.libcal.com
Nov. 23: Pre-Thanksgiving Cooking Class: Join chef and owner of Westerly Canteen, Molly Levine for a Thanksgiving cooking class and communal meal at Hammertown in Pine Plains. Info: westerlycanteen.com
Nov. 29–30: Willow Wreath Making at BES in Millerton: all-ages are welcome for this wreath-making workshop using locally sourced decorative materials. More info: shop-bes.com
Nov. 29: Kent’s Sip, Sparkle & Stroll: from 4 to 8 p.m., take a stroll along Main Street in Kent and enjoy the delightful lights, shops, galleries, restaurants and festive cheer.
Nov. 30: Cottage Courses presents a papier-mâché, hand-painted ornament workshop at Troutbeck in Amenia. More info: troutbeck.com
Dec. 7: Make your own holiday wreath at Arethusa Farm Foundation in Litchfield. More info: arethusafarmfoundation.org
Nov. 21–22: Uncle Al’s Thrift Shop’s annual Christmas sale at the St. Joseph School gym in Millbrook. stjosephmillbrookny.org
Nov. 22: Mad Rose Art Market opens in Millerton. This holiday salon of unique and inspired gifts for the holidays is open until Dec. 31 with an opening reception on Nov. 22 from 4 to 6 p.m. madrosegallery.com
Nov. 22: Tivoli Artists Gallery Holiday Show & Sale. Handmade gift items in a variety of media on sale. Opening reception is 5 to 7 p.m. Tivoliartistsgallery.com
Nov. 22: 48th Annual Group Holiday Sale, Rhinebeck. From 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. at the Delamater Inn and Conference Center, this show features a collection of 20 artisans. Also open Nov. 23, 10 a.m. To 4 p.m.
Nov. 23: Noxon Road PTA Craft Fair, LaGrangeville. From 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., this holiday craft fair benefits the Noxon Road Elementary School’s PTA.
Nov. 28: Millerton’s Festival of Lights: from 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., get ready for a magical day of holiday cheer. More info: visitmillertonny.com
Nov. 28 – Dec. 31: Holiday Boutique at The Spa at Litchfield Hills is a shopping haven featuring thougtfully curated gifts. Info: Litchfield-spa.com
Nov. 28: Kent Tree Lighting, 4 p.m at Kent Town Hall. Caroling, cocoa, cookies and a visit from Santa.
Nov. 28–30: Basilica Farm & Flea Holiday Market, Hudson. Since 2013, this huge annual event is part timeless flea market, part farmers market, part 21st century craft and design fair. Info: basilicahudson.org
Nov. 29: Barnspace Market at Race Brook Lodge in Sheffield. A great opportunity to discover unique options for your holiday gifting. Info: rblodge.com
Nov. 29 and Dec. 13: Salisbury Handmade at the White Hart ballroom in Salisbury. This annual event features different artisans at each market. Info: artisansale.org
Dec. 5–6: Noble Horizons Holiday Market: from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., visit the holiday market at Noble Horizons in Salisbury. On Dec. 6, there’s even storytime with Mrs. Claus! Info: noblehorizons.org
Dec. 6–7 & 13–14: Winter Wonderland Market at Wassaic. Artist alumni and local makers fill the mill with handmade creations and stocking stuffers. Info: wassaicproject.org
Dec. 6–7: Troutbeck Holiday Bazaar. Visit Troutbeck in Amenia for a thoughtful selection of wares from local shops, artists, jewelers and New York City-based boutiques. Info: troutbeck.com
Dec. 6: Santa, Cookie Contest & Tree Lighting, Sharon.
Dec. 13: Holiday Fête at Fiddlestyx in Sharon. From 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., visit Fiddlestyx for gifts, food and music. Info: fiddlestyx.info
Dec. 13–14: A tavern takeover at Stissing House Craft Feast in Pine Plains. 50 makers and dealers with pottery, baskets, textiles and more, curated with Deborah Needleman. Broth, carols, brooms, whittled spoons and winter cheer. Info: stissinghouse.com